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Brigitte Macron Inaugurates a New Look for France

来源:纽约时报    2017-05-17 01:35:39

        On Sunday, when Brigitte Macron strode up the red carpet at the Élysée Palace alongside her husband, Emmanuel Macron, for his inauguration as president of France, it marked not just the official transition of power but also the advent of a new kind of first lady for the nation, and a new kind of political partnership. And it suggested that the Michelle Obama-size hole that has been left in the art of sartorial communications and diplomacy since America’s former first couple left the world stage may be about to be filled — albeit in an original way.        周日,布丽吉特·马克龙(Brigitte Macron)和丈夫埃马纽埃尔·马克龙(Emmanuel Macron)一同阔步走在爱舍丽宫(Élysée Palace)的红毯上,参加他就任法国总统的就职典礼。这不仅标志着官方的权力交接,而且标志着一种新型第一夫人和新型政治伙伴关系的出现。它意味着,前美国第一夫妇离开世界舞台之后,米歇尔·奥巴马(Michelle Obama) 在服装交流艺术和外交方面留下的巨大空白可能即将被填补——虽然是以全新的方式。
        In her knee-baring, powder-blue Louis Vuitton dress, with its matching military-inspired jacket, Ms. Macron managed to make a statement about her independence and refusal to fit into any established box (from political parties to age-appropriate dressing) without overtly rejecting the past, and while underscoring her husband’s messaging in a multitude of ways. All without saying a word, though the images went global.        马克龙夫人身穿裸露膝盖的浅蓝色路易威登(Louis Vuitton)连衣裙,搭配配套的军装风格外套。她通过这套服装宣布了自己的独立性,表明她拒绝服从任何既有的规矩(从政党到适合年龄的着装),但也没有过分地排斥过去,同时以各种方式强调丈夫的主张。一句话也不用说,但这种形象已传遍全球。
        It was quite a strategic opening.        这是一个相当巧妙的开端。
        While there was some online chatter about the color of the ensemble recalling Melania Trump’s Ralph Lauren dress-and-jacket at her husband’s inauguration, it seems to me that in detail and effect, the two could not be further apart. Mrs. Trump’s choice, after all, called to mind nothing so much as the past: Jackie Kennedy and Camelot. Ms. Macron’s look spoke to the future, and to how she is redefining her role.        虽然网上有人议论说,这套服装的颜色让人想起了梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump)在丈夫就职典礼上穿的拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)连衣裙和外套,但在我看来,两者在细节和效果上有天壤之别。毕竟,特朗普的选择让人想起了过去:杰基·肯尼迪(Jackie Kennedy)和“佳美洛王朝”(Camelot)。而马克龙夫人的造型展现的是未来,以及她如何重新定义自己的角色。
        She has been doing it in myriad ways since her husband declared his candidacy for president, but while attention has largely focused on their unconventional love story (she is 64, 24 years older than him), her unconventional wardrobe — at least for a political spouse of a certain age — has played a less observed part.        自从丈夫宣布参与总统竞选以来,她一直以各种方式展现这一点。虽然人们的注意力主要集中在他们非传统的爱情故事(她64岁了,比他大24岁)上,但她的非传统着装——至少是对特定年龄的政治人士配偶来说——也起到了一定的作用,尽管受到的关注较少。
        Skinny jeans, leather leggings, jackets (tailored and motorcycle-inspired), short skirts, New Balance sneakers and Louis Vuitton handbags, even the occasional hoodie, have formed the basic building blocks of her style: one that reaches across generations, and just says “no” to the classic knee-length skirt suits of the bourgeoisie — and to any historical diktats about what women older than 60 are supposed to wear. It may be the least of the breaks from tradition in which she and her husband are engaged, but in some ways it is the most accessible, which makes it powerful.        紧身牛仔裤,紧身皮裤,(机车风格、定制的)夹克,短裙,新百伦(New Balance)运动鞋和路易威登手袋,甚至偶尔还有连帽衫——这些是她的风格的基本构成:涵盖各个年龄层的服装,但就是拒绝中产阶级的经典及膝裙套装,以及任何关于60岁以上女性应该穿什么的传统规矩。这可能是她和丈夫打破的传统中最微不足道的一项,但在某种程度上,它是最可接近的,所以才最有力量。
        Especially because she is being cheered as an icon of “French style” as a result. Though equally interesting is the icon of French style she has enlisted in her cause.        尤其是考虑到,她正被推崇为“法国风尚”的标志性人物。不过,被她拉入自己事业中的那个法国时尚品牌也同样有趣。
        Vuitton is a brand with which Ms. Macron has been allied since Bastille Day of 2015 (coincidence? I doubt it), when she first wore one of its navy dresses at a public event. It is a tentpole name in French luxury — founded in 1854; owned by the richest man in France, Bernard Arnault; part of the country’s most successful export sector — yet one that has rarely been adopted by the political elite. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, wife of former President Nicolas Sarkozy, tended to wear Christian Dior in her official appearances; Valérie Trierweiler, partner of François Hollande at the start of his presidency, was famous for her Saint Laurent Tribute stilettos. Bernadette Chirac, the wife of former President Jacques Chirac, was partial to Chanel.        马克龙夫人是从2015年国庆节起与路易威登联手的(我怀疑这不是巧合),当时她在一场公开活动中首次身穿该品牌的一件深蓝连衣裙。路易威登是法国奢侈品行业的一个支柱品牌,创立于1854年,为法国首富贝尔纳·阿尔诺(Bernard Arnault)所有。它是该国最为成功的出口企业之一,却很少被政治精英选用。前总统尼古拉·萨科奇(Nicolas Sarkozy)的妻子卡拉·布吕尼-萨科齐(Carla Bruni-Sarkozy)倾向于在正式场合穿迪奥(Christian Dior)的服装;弗朗索瓦·奥朗德(François Hollande)任总统初期的伴侣瓦莱丽·特里耶韦莱(Valérie Trierweiler)以她的圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)Tribute细高跟鞋闻名。前总统雅克·希拉克(Jacques Chirac)的妻子贝尔纳黛特·希拉克(Bernadette Chirac)偏爱香奈儿(Chanel)。
        Ms. Macron, by contrast, has attended Vuitton shows and worn the brand on multiple occasions, most recently on election night. And she has managed to defray the possible political cost of being so close to an elitist name, unaffordable to many, by — as the brand has made clear — arranging to borrow most of what she wears, including her Inauguration Day look, and then returning it (she does buy some of it). She casts herself as an ambassador of French creativity, as opposed to simply an acquirer of it.        相形之下,马克龙观看过路易威登的时装秀,在多个场合穿过该品牌的服装,最近一次是在选举夜。她设法承担了与一个精英品牌保持亲密关系可能产生的政治代价。该品牌是很多人买不起的。正如该品牌已说明的,她的大部分服装是借来的,包括她在就职典礼上穿的那套服装,然后再还回去(她的确也买了一些)。她把自己塑造为法国创造力的大使,而不只是购买者。
        By doubling down on that relationship and seeming to formally inaugurate Vuitton as her go-to brand, Ms. Macron made a tactical choice to elevate a different name in the game of image-ineering. One that, as the brand’s last collection made clear, happens to share her husband’s belief in the value of cross-border relationships and cross-fertilization. Simply consider the artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière’s statement after the fall 2017 show — that he wanted to use fashion to demonstrate the value of breaking “every boundary possible.”        通过强化这种关系,而且似乎正式将路易威登确定为自己的常用品牌,马克龙夫人做出了一个战略选择,在形象塑造方面树立一个不同的名声。正如该品牌的最新系列明确展现的那样,这一战略正好呼应了她丈夫对跨国界关系和文化交流的价值的信念。只要想想路易威登的艺术总监尼古拉斯·盖斯奇埃尔(Nicolas Ghesquière)在2017年秋季服装秀之后的声明就知道了——他想用时尚来展现打破“所有潜在的界线”的价值。
        Coincidence? Again, I doubt it.        又是巧合?我再次表示怀疑。
        Just as I doubt that the epaulets on Ms. Macron’s inauguration jacket, and its shiny double-breasted rows of buttons, were a coincidence on an occasion that Mr. Macron filled with military symbolism. Her outfit gave visual support to his message, which included driving up the Champs-Élysées in a military vehicle.        正如我怀疑,在马克龙充满军事象征意义的就职典礼上,马克龙夫人正好身穿带有肩章和闪亮双排扣的外套也不是巧合。她的着装从视觉上支持了他要传递的信息,包括乘军车驶过香榭​​丽舍大街。
        En garde.        预备!

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