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In India, Ivanka Trump Tried on Some Fashion Diplomacy. Was it a Good Look?

来源:纽约时报    2017-12-01 08:28:00

        Where is the line between culturally appropriate dress and cultural appropriation?        符合文化的着装与文化挪用之间的界线是什么?
        It was hard to look at Ivanka Trump’s wardrobe during her India trip this week and not ask the question. After all, from her opening mother-of-pearl embroidered jacket to her final kurta dress, she swerved from her usual pencil skirts and high heels to make her clothes part of the content of her communications. And there were many: two and a half days, six looks, all excitedly chronicled by local style watchers.        看着伊万卡·特朗普(Ivanka Trump)在本周的印度之旅中的着装,你难免会想到这个问题。毕竟,从一开始穿的珍珠母绣花上衣,到最后穿的库尔塔连衣裙,她一改通常的铅笔半身裙和高跟鞋风格,让着装成为她沟通内容的一部分。还有其他很多服装:两天半,六个造型——它们都被当地的时尚观察者们兴奋地记录了下来。
        Indeed, Ms. Trump, in Hyderabad, the capital of the southern Indian state of Telangana, to lead the United States delegation to the eighth annual Global Entrepreneurship Summit, had begun making headlines with fashion even before she arrived. Critics pointed out what they called the hypocrisy of Ivanka Trump (the individual) in making a speech on the importance of female empowerment and equality, when Ivanka Trump (the company) is believed to employ low-wage workers in countries such as … India.        事实上,在伊万卡·特朗普带领美国代表团前往印度南部特伦甘纳州首府海得拉巴出席第八届全球创业峰会(Global Entrepreneurship Summit)之前,她已经因为时装上过新闻了。批评者们认为伊万卡·特朗普很虚伪,她发表关于女性权利与平等的重要性的演讲,可是据传,她的伊万卡·特朗普时装公司却在印度等国雇佣低薪工人。
        Ms. Trump did not address the issue during her various speeches and panels, but she did use dress in a notable way.        伊万卡·特朗普在各种演讲和座谈中没有提到这个问题,但她利用着装的方式的确引人注目。
        Unlike her stepmother, Melania Trump, who seemed uninterested in leveraging fashion for political capital during her tour through Asia with President Trump, Ivanka Trump seemed to have embraced the idea wholeheartedly. If, at least at the beginning, a little one-dimensionally.        梅拉尼娅·特朗普(Melania Trump)在与特朗普总统访问亚洲期间,似乎对于利用着装获取政治资本没有兴趣,与继母不同,伊万卡·特朗普似乎完全接受这个想法。尽管至少在刚开始的时候,她的想法有点单一。
        On Monday evening, for example, she made her initial appearance in a Tory Burch “Sylvia” jacket: a black style covered in mother-of-pearl embroidery that called to mind Indian prints and architecture. As it happens, Hyderabad is historically known as “the city of pearls.”        例如,周一晚上,她初次亮相时穿的是汤丽柏琦(Tory Burch)的西尔维亚(Sylvia)外衣:一款布满珍珠母刺绣的黑色外衣,让人联想起印度的印花和建筑。事实上,海得拉巴在历史上被称为“珍珠之城”。
        Get it?!        明白了吗?!
        Then, on Tuesday, Ms. Trump donned a green brocade Erdem tea-length dress with pink and yellow flowers that some commentators likened to traditional Indian anarkali style, complete with keyhole neckline. (Some others likened it to wallpaper).        然后,在周二,伊万卡穿的是Erdem牌锁孔领口、绿底粉黄花朵织锦茶会连衣裙,有些评论家认为它有点像印度传统的阿纳尔卡利(anarkali)风格(也有人把它比作墙纸)。
        And that evening, though breathless rumors had abounded earlier in the week that she was going to wear a sari gown specially made by the Indian designer Neeta Lulla, a favorite of Bollywood stars, in fact she wore another Tory Burch creation: a long-sleeved, round-necked gown with stylized gold floral embroidery that again had an ersatz Indian theme.        尽管本周早些时候流传着惊人的谣言,说她要穿深受宝莱坞明星喜爱的印度设计师妮塔·露拉(Neeta Lulla)专门为她制作的莎丽,但实际上,她穿的是汤丽柏琦的另一款长袖圆领金花刺绣的礼服——还是伪印度主题。
        According to a spokeswoman for Ms. Lulla, the sari gown had been made as a welcome gesture. It would have been a pretty big statement if Ms. Trump had worn it, but all the Tory Burch was also interesting, given Ms. Burch’s very vocal support of female entrepreneurs — her foundation has a fellows program geared specifically to support women starting their own businesses — and her brand’s contemporary-ish price points. (Admittedly, the dress costs $3,498, but it’s cheaper than the Dior that Melania Trump favors; plus Ms. Trump wore Zara mules repeatedly during the trip, which is relatively budget-conscious of her).        据露拉的发言人称,那件莎丽礼服是为了表示欢迎而制作的。如果伊万卡真的穿了它,那将是一个非常重要的声明,不过汤丽柏琦的那些衣服也很有趣,因为它们的设计师伯奇(Burch)女士大力声援女性创业者——她的基金会有一个会员项目,专门支持女性开创自己的公司——而且该品牌的价位也比较符合当代特点(当然,那条裙子的售价高达3498美元,但它比梅拉尼娅·特朗普钟爱的迪奥要便宜得多;此外,伊万卡在这次旅行中多次穿着Zara的服装,那是她行头中比较便宜的牌子)。
        Not that Tory Burch (the company) seemed particularly excited about Ms. Trump’s patronage. “We don’t work with Ivanka at all,” a spokeswoman said by email when asked about it.        汤丽柏琦公司似乎并没有对伊万卡的惠顾感到特别兴奋。当被问及此事时,该公司的一位发言人称:“我们完全没有与伊万卡合作。”
        Though Indian style watchers were generally positive about the dinner dress and pleased that Ms. Trump had abandoned her usual garb for more demure, covered-up styles, there was some griping. DailyO, an online opinion site from the India Today Group, deemed it all a “superficial assimilation of culture” that was compounded by the “floral gown that looked like a ‘me-too’ of a Kashmiri pheran.”        尽管印度的时尚观察者们普遍对那件晚宴礼服表示赞赏,很高兴伊万卡放弃一贯的装束,选择更端庄、更少暴露的风格,但也有人表示不满。印度今日集团(India Today Group)的在线评论网站DailyO认为这些都是“肤浅的文化融合”,“那件印花礼服看起来更像是克什米尔服装”。
        Bandana Tewari, the editor at large of Vogue India, said, “If Ivanka’s clothes are to be an acknowledgment of an ancient and rich culture like ours, especially as she arrives as a dignitary, then the sartorial ‘tribute’ should be authentic in its intention. We would rather see her wear a hand-woven sari made in our country or a handmade gown made in her own country. But to hybridize the two, in an era of unfiltered diversity, is a superfluous nod to half-acceptance.”        《Vogue》杂志印度版的特约编辑班达娜·特瓦里(Bandana Tewari)表示,“如果伊万卡想通过着装对我们这样古老而丰富的文化表示认同,尤其是当她作为要员来到这里时,那么服装方面的‘致敬’在用意方面应该更纯正。我们更愿意看到她身穿我们国家制作的手工莎丽,或者由她的国家制作的手工礼服。但是,在这个未经过滤的多元时代,将这两者混合到一起只是一种多余的表示,表明她并非完全接纳这种文化。”
        And therein lies the problem.        问题就出在这里。
        While on the one hand it is nice to see someone in the Trump administration make an effort to leverage the possibilities of tactical dress, the interpretation was largely through the lens of the outsider looking in. The selections had echoes of orientalism and ornamentation — just as Ms. Trump’s choice of a kimono-inspired dress, complete with obi belt, by the Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz, did in Japan earlier this month. And just as Melania Trump’s Gucci gown with faux Chinese embroidery did during the Trumps’ state visit to China.        虽然我们很高兴看到特朗普政府中有人试图利用服装作为一种战术,但是对它们的解读大多是通过局外人的视角进行的。这些服装反映了东方主义和装饰风格,正如本月早些时候,伊万卡在访问日本时选择了哥伦比亚设计师约翰娜·奥尔蒂斯(Johanna Ortiz)设计的和服风格礼服,搭配和服宽腰带。特朗普夫妇对中国进行国事访问时,梅拉尼娅也是选择了一件带有仿制中国刺绣的古驰(Gucci)礼服。
        Instead of wearing work by a designer that spoke to the nuances of the country (a tactic adopted often by Michelle Obama, for example), Ms. Trump opted, at least initially, for the most obvious: clothes by outsiders who dipped into their fantasy of India as opposed to its reality.        特朗普没有穿着反映这个国家微妙精髓的设计师的服装(那是米歇尔·奥巴马[Michelle Obama]经常采用的策略),而是选择了——至少在一开始是这样——最浅白的:一些局外人设计的服装,反映的是他们对印度的幻想,而非事实。
        Which is probably why the dress she wore to a session on Wednesday, by the London-based, Bombay-born designer Saloni Lodha, a red floral print with black lace trim at the sleeves, stood out.        这很可能是她周三在一个座谈会上穿的裙子脱颖而出的原因,那条裙子是孟买出生的伦敦设计师萨洛尼·洛达(Saloni Lodha)设计的,一条袖子有黑色蕾丝边的红色印花裙。
        As Ms. Lodha says on her website: “I always keep in mind my Indian heritage while designing but don’t translate it literally into our clothes. I think the way we, as a brand, celebrate bold colors and patterns is our way of bringing the spirit of India into the collections.”        正如洛达在自己的网站上说的:“我设计时始终没有忘记自己的印度传统,但我不会直白地把它反映到我们的服装上。我认为,作为一个品牌,我们发扬大胆色彩和图案的方式是将印度的精神带到我们的服装系列中。”
        “Spirit,” instead of, say, stereotype.        “精神”,而不是刻板印象。
        Still, from there Ms. Trump went even further: After she appeared in a cream-and-black lace dress by the Indonesian designer Biyan Wanaatmadja to tour the Golconda Fort in Telangana State, she chose to make her departure in a traditional kurta dress in ivory and green.        不过,从那之后,伊万卡走得更远了:在游览特伦甘纳州的戈尔孔达堡垒(Golconda Fort)时,她穿的是印尼设计师碧妍·瓦纳特马达(Biyan Wanaatmadja)设计的一件奶油色加黑色蕾丝连衣裙;她离开印度时,选择了一件象牙色加绿色传统库尔塔连衣裙。
        She looked “like an Indian Barbie doll” the news outlet India Today said, with apparent approval. Whether that was actually the last impression Ms. Trump wanted to leave on a trip that was supposed to be about “women first” is not entirely clear.        新闻门户网站今日印度(India Today)称,她看起来“像个印度芭比娃娃”,显然是表示认可。这是否真的是伊万卡想在这次本应关于“女性优先”的访问中留下的最后印象,就不是特别清楚了。

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