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36小时玩转上海
36 Hours in Shanghai

来源:纽约时报    2017-12-05 09:29:18



         Shanghai’s appeal has long been its breathtaking skyline, glitzy night life and brash, anything-goes attitude. A cultural mecca it was not. In recent years, though, China’s commercial capital has started to develop a more sophisticated side. A host of high-profile museum openings and the launch of several influential art fairs — ART021, West Bund Art & Design and Photofairs Shanghai — have solidified Shanghai’s status as a major player in the Asian art world, while new performing arts venues like the Shanghai Symphony Orchestra Hall have vastly improved its theater and music offerings. Yes, there are still shopping malls aplenty, but also, increasingly, independent bookstores, creative entrepreneurs and seriously good coffee shops. Shanghai is still a city flush with cash and Ferraris, but beneath all the excess, there’s more substance than ever.        长期以来,上海的吸引力一直在于它壮观的天际线、摇曳生姿的夜生活和趾高气昂、百无禁忌的态度。文化圣城就谈不上了。但近年来,作为中国的商业中心,上海开始发展更高雅的一面。大量广受关注的博物馆开门迎客,加上多个有影响力的艺术博览会的举办——上海廿一当代艺术博览会、西岸艺术设计博览会和影像上海艺术博览会,巩固了上海作为亚洲艺术界主要力量的地位。同时,新建成的上海交响乐团音乐厅等艺术表演场所极大地提升了剧院和音乐活动的水平。上海依然有着不计其数的大商场,但同时,独立书店、有创造力的创业者和相当优秀的咖啡馆也越来越多。上海依然是一座充斥着金钱和法拉利跑车的城市,但在奢靡无度的外表下,这里的实质内容也比以往任何时候都多。
        Friday
         周五
        1) 3 P.M. ART STROLL        1) 下午3:00,Art Stroll
        For a city its size, Shanghai had been famously short on two things — green space and art. To remedy that, the city splashed out to build its own Museum Mile, along with a riverside park, in a new district known as West Bund. The Yuz Museum (entrance, 150 renminbi, or about $22), housed in a Sou Fujimoto-designed former aircraft hangar, has been at the forefront of the cultural awakening here, hosting high-profile shows featuring Andy Warhol, Alberto Giacometti and the Brooklyn-based artist KAWS in recent years. A short walk down the river is a fast-growing arts complex filled with studios and galleries, including the venerable ShanghART (free), which exhibits works by emerging Chinese artists and sells pieces by more established names like Zhou Tiehai and Ding Yi. Added to the mix this fall was another highly anticipated gallery, the Tokyo-based Ota Fine Arts.        以它的规模而言,这座城市有两样东西短缺——绿地和艺术。为改进这点,上海掷下重金,在一个叫做西岸的新区打造了属于自己的“博物馆大道”(Museum Mile)和一个河滨公园。由藤本壮介担纲设计的余德耀美术馆(门票150元)坐落在一个老飞机库内,走在这里的文化觉醒的前沿。近些年举办了一些重量级展览,展出了安迪·沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)、阿尔佩托·贾科梅蒂(Alberto Giacometti)以及布鲁克林艺术家KAWS。顺着江岸走不出多远,便是一片发展迅速的艺术建筑群,满是工作室和画廊。其中有让人肃然起敬的香格纳画廊(ShanghART,免费),会展出中国新锐艺术家的作品,也出售如周铁海和丁乙等更有名的艺术家的作品。今年秋季,备受瞩目的大田画廊(Ota Fine Arts)也加入其中。
        2) 6 P.M. HAPPY HOUR ON HIGH        2) 下午6:00,空中欢乐时光
        It’s hard to fathom that the futuristic skyline of the Pudong financial district was little more than farmland 30 years ago. Ponder that while sipping a cocktail and taking in the fantastic light show at sunset, when the gleaming towers are illuminated with flashing “I Heart Shanghai” messages, and boats, twinkling with lights, glide by on the river. Perches abound for this neon-bathed sundowner, but the 30th floor balcony at the Hotel Indigo’s Char Bar offers one of the best vantage points — not to mention a highly drinkable Aperol spritz (130 renminbi).        很难想象,有着极其现代化天际线的浦东,在30年前只不过是一片农田。不妨一边品着鸡尾酒、欣赏着日落时分绝美的灯光秀,一边琢磨这个问题吧。日落时,熠熠发光的大楼被闪现的“我爱上海”信息照亮,江面上还有灯光闪烁的船只驶过。有很多地方可供你品一杯沐浴在霓虹之中的夕暮饮品,但是在英迪格酒店(Hotel Indigo)30层上,“恰”酒吧的露台有着最佳的视野——更别提超级好喝的开胃鸡尾酒了(售价130元)。
        3) 7:30 P.M. BEEF AUCTION        3) 下午7:30,牛肉竞拍
        Shanghai is loaded with celebrity chefs, but none can match the staying power of the Frenchman Paul Pairet, founder of the late-night stalwart Mr & Mrs Bund and the boundary-pushing, $600-a-head Ultraviolet. His latest offering, The Chop Chop Club, continues his penchant for quirky dining experiences with a grill-focused menu that pits diners against one another for the freshest cuts. A giant electronic board in the dining room announces the time dishes will be ready, along with available servings: “Bertha-oven charred oxtail teriyaki, 19:45, 4 portions, 250 renminbi!” First come are first served. The meats and fish are all expertly prepared and if you miss out on your first choice, the “B’ocktails” (pre-made cocktails in handsome glass bottles) are available all night.        上海的明星大厨不计其数,但没人可以与法国人保罗·佩莱(Paul Pairet)的影响力相媲美。他创办了营业到深夜的Mr. & Mrs. Bund和不断打破规则、人均600美元的Ultraviolet。最新推出的“The Chop Chop Club”延续了他对奇异用餐体验的热爱。菜单以烧烤为主,食客们可以竞逐最新鲜的肉品。餐厅内,巨大电子屏上显示着出菜时间和当前点餐:“照烧碳烤焦牛尾,19:45,4份,250人民币!”先到先得。肉和鱼都经过精心制备,如果错过了你的首选,整晚都会为你提供“B’ocktails”(装在精美玻璃瓶里的预制鸡尾酒)。
        4) 9 P.M. CABARET REBIRTH        4) 晚上9:00,夜总会复兴
        Shanghai’s newfound wealth has led to a revival of the decadence and debauchery of its pre-World War II years — minus the opium dens. The most ribald party in town can be found in the distant, gritty Hongkou district at The Pearl, a former Buddhist temple transformed into a cabaret club with plush red banquettes and two tiers of balconies surrounding an intimate stage. The program runs the gamut from gender-bending drag and burlesque shows (trapeze artists and fire jugglers make frequent, heart-pounding appearances) to less risqué fare like “jazz diva” tribute concerts, featuring largely local performers. Admission to most shows is around 200 renminbi; check Facebook for a calendar.
        新掘的财富使上海重现了二战前的骄佚奢淫——少了鸦片馆而已。在偏远而粗粝的虹口区,你可以在珍珠剧场里找到上海最俗艳的派对。珍珠剧场原本是一座佛寺,后来被改造成了一个歌舞夜总会,奢华的红色长椅和两层楼座围绕着暧昧的舞台。节目单上什么都有,从模糊性别的变装表演,到歌舞杂剧(高空秋千和喷火杂耍是出现得最多的,也是最令人心跳的)。还有不那么低俗的演出,比如大部分由当地演员参演的“爵士女伶”纪念音乐会。大多数演出的入场费大约在200元左右,可以去Facebook查看日程。
        Saturday         周六
        5) 10 A.M. MAO’S SHANGHAI        5) 上午10:00,毛泽东的上海
        Start the day with a history tour in the atmospheric former French Concession. The Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre (25 renminbi) takes some effort to find — it’s in the basement of an apartment building — but inside is the collector Yang Pei Ming’s impressive display of Communist propaganda art, spanning the 1940s to the post-Mao Zedong years in the late 1970s. Original posters are on sale, as are Mao’s Little Red Books in English, French and even Tibetan. Next, take in the stately, early-20th century mansions along Wukang Road, built in an array of styles. Most are closed to the public, but the nearby Former Residence of Soong Ching-ling (20 renminbi), better known as Madame Sun Yat-sen, is worth a visit for a peek at her lovely camphor-shaded garden and the 1950s-era Soviet limousine gifted to her by Joseph Stalin.        从昔日的法租界气氛中开始一天的历史之行吧。在一栋公寓楼地下室里的上海宣传画艺术中心(Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre,门票25元)可能要花些力气才能找到。馆内由收藏家杨培明收集的共产党宣传画十分精彩,时间跨度从20世纪40年代一直到70年代末的后毛泽东时代。馆内出售原版海报,还有英文版、法文版甚至藏语版的红宝书。接着,还可以去武康路上欣赏一幢幢风格各异的20世纪初豪宅。其中大多都不向公众开放,但旁边的宋庆龄故居(门票20元)——她作为孙中山夫人的身份可能更为人所知——樟树荫盖的小巧花园值得一看,还有那辆约瑟夫·斯大林(Joseph Stalin)在20世纪50年代赠予她的苏联产豪华轿车。
        6) 12:30 P.M. SLURP YOUR LUNCH        6) 下午12:30,吃一顿呼噜噜的午饭
        The sign above the wall-mounted menu says it all: “Order now, stuff now, steam now, eat now.” At Lin Long Fang, freshness is a virtue — the hole-in-the-wall restaurant specializes in one thing, xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and does it exceedingly well, making each batch to order. The cooking demonstration is something to behold — the talkative chefs roll, stuff and pinch each bao with swiftness and precision. And the dumplings themselves easily trump those found in more upmarket locales, particularly the delectable chun xiefen (pure crab, 99 renminbi). Napkins are a necessity as these morsels can be messy.        墙上的菜单有句话说明了一切:“现点,现包,现蒸,现吃。”在麟笼坊,要的就是新鲜——这个狭小的餐厅只专注做小笼包这一件事,做得也非常好,客人点多少做多少。烹饪展示也令人大饱眼福——健谈的厨师们快速而细致地擀面、包馅,再捏出一个个小笼包。这些包子能轻而易举地打败那些高档店面的出品,尤其是美味的纯蟹粉小笼包(99元)。纸巾是必备的,因为吃起来会比较狼狈。
        7) 3 P.M. ARTISTIC THREADS        7) 下午3:00,艺术丝线
        Amid all the same-same luxury malls in Shanghai, there are a plethora of independent boutiques to be found. Dong Liang, the go-to place for emerging Chinese women’s fashion designers, expanded two years ago with a men’s boutique; check out Chuang Qu’s mud-dyed jackets and the bold eyewear conjured up by the Shanghai label ChairEyes. For traditional textiles with a modern design, the newly opened Klee Klee sells women’s wear made from organic silk and colorful pillows and quilts stitched by minority Dong artisans in rural Guizhou province, while Shokay specializes in sustainable yak-down blankets and sweaters sourced from Tibetan herders in western China.
        在众多大同小异的奢侈品商场之外,上海有太多的独立服装店可以发掘。“栋梁”是要找中国新锐女性时尚设计师的必去之处,两年前拓展了一个男装部。可以看看瞿创的泥染夹克和上海品牌“ChairEyes”变幻出来的醒目眼镜。要买带有现代设计感的传统面料,新开张的店铺“Klee Klee”有用有机蚕丝制作的女装,以及由贵州偏远地区的侗族工匠缝制的彩色枕头和被子。“Shokay”则专门制作环保的牦牛绒毯和牦牛绒毛衣,原料采购自藏人牧民。
        8) 7 P.M. NO-MEAT ZONE        8) 晚上7:00,不吃肉的地方
        For vegetarians, China can be a risky proposition — even seemingly safe dishes like green beans and tofu are often sprinkled with pork. But at Dashu Wujie, a serene restaurant with wood tables, soft lighting and translucent gauze screens separating diners, the aim is to showcase inventive vegetarian cooking with a seasonal menu and ingredients from far-flung regions of China. (The wild mushrooms, for one, are flown in from Yunnan province on the Myanmar border.) Dishes like chive-oil walnuts in a green pepper sauce (98 renminbi) and Japanese-style panko-crusted mushroom tonkatsu (88 renminbi) are flavorful, as well. It’s a dry restaurant, though you’ll hardly notice after tasting the fizzy oolong cranberry vinegar tea (42 renminbi).        对于素食者来说,中国可能是一个充满风险的地方——就连那些看似安全的菜肴,比如扁豆和豆腐,也往往加入了肉末。但在“大蔬无界”餐厅,你就不必担心了。这个安静的餐厅布置了木桌子、柔和的灯光,以及将宾客分开的半透明纱幕。它展示充满创意的素食烹饪,菜单随季节变化,食材来自中国的偏远地区(比如,野生菌菇是从与缅甸接壤的云南省空运过来的)。青椒酱葱油核桃(98元)和日式裹面包屑炸蘑菇(88元)等菜肴也很美味。这家餐厅不供应酒,不过在品尝了起泡的蔓越莓乌龙醋茶(42元)后,你根本意识不到这一点。
        9) 10 P.M. VINTAGE TUNES        9) 晚上10:00,复古旋律
        From the Art Deco lettering out front to the polished brass fan design arching above patrons on the ceiling, the intimate jazz bar Heyday evokes the glamour days of 1920s and ’30s Shanghai when jazz flourished in the hedonistic foreign concessions. The drinks menu, too, gives a wink to jazz classics, with concoctions like “Minnie the Moocher” (Benedictine, amaro, lemon, yuzu marmalade and egg white), named after a song by Cab Calloway. Led by the Russian-Israeli pianist Oleg Roschin, a longtime fixture on the Shanghai jazz scene, the Heyday band plays nightly, fronted by a rotating cast of singers. Cover charges for the tables and booths vary, but seats in the bar area are free. And in a venue this cozy, there’s literally not a bad seat in the house.        从前门装饰艺术风格的字体,到天花板上悬挂的精致铜扇,私密的爵士酒吧Heyday让人想起了20世纪20、30年代上海的繁华,当时爵士乐在追求享乐的外国租界里十分流行。这里的酒水单也在向爵士乐经典致敬,比如Minnie the Moocher鸡尾酒(含有本尼迪克特甜酒、埃玛娜葡萄酒、柠檬、橘子酱和蛋清)就是以卡布·卡洛韦(Cab Calloway)的一首歌命名的。Heyday的乐队由上海爵士乐坛的常青树、俄罗斯裔以色列钢琴家奥列格·罗辛(Oleg Roschin)领衔,每晚都有演出,歌手是轮换的。卡座和包间的费用各不相同,但酒吧区的座位是免费的。在这个舒适的酒吧里,哪个座位都很好。
        Sunday        周日
        10) 6 A.M. BUNDRISE WAKE-UP        10) 上午6:00,在外滩日出中醒来
        Late-night revelers and early risers find common inspiration at the historic Bund at this time of day — the tranquil sight of pensioners practicing tai chi as the sun rises over the Pudong skyline and the Huangpu River (known to some as a Bundrise). It’s also a great spot for a jog — north along the Bund across the century-old steel Waibaidu Bridge and then along Suzhou Creek. If this is too early for you, grab coffee instead at The Press, an atmospheric cafe in the beautifully restored, historic Shun Pao building, the former home of one of Shanghai’s first daily newspapers.        在一天中的这个宁静的时刻,深夜的狂欢者和早起的人在历史悠久的外滩找到了共同的灵感——当太阳从浦东天际线和黄浦江上升起时(有人称之为“Bundrise”[外滩日出]),退休的老人悠闲地打着太极。它也是一处绝佳的慢跑地点——在北岸沿着外滩,穿过有百年历史的全钢结构外百渡桥,然后沿着苏州河慢跑。如果这对你来说太早了,那就在雅致的申报馆咖啡厅(The Press)喝一杯咖啡,它位于装修华丽、历史悠久的申报馆大楼内,那里曾是上海首家日报社的所在地。
        11) 10 A.M. LOFTY LOOKOUT        11) 上午10:00,登高瞭望
        At 2,073 feet, Shanghai Tower, the second-tallest building on earth, doesn’t just dwarf the other skyscrapers around it, it makes them look laughably small. On a clear day, the bird’s-eye view from the observation deck on the 118th floor is equally impressive — an endless tableau of apartment blocks and office towers stretching to the horizon, interrupted only by the placid, snaking Huangpu (entrance, 180 renminbi). For skyscraper aficionados, the swooping, cylindrical tower also has an informative museum with all sorts of factoids. Not only does the building feature the world’s heaviest damper to prevent swaying (1,100 tons), it also has the world’s fastest elevators, whisking visitors to the top at an ear-popping 40 miles per hour.
        高达632米的上海中心大厦是世界第二高楼,在它的映衬下,周围的摩天大楼显得小得可怜。在一个晴朗的日子里,从118层的观景台上俯瞰上海,那景象同样令人印象深刻——无穷无尽的公寓楼和写字楼向着地平线延伸,直到被平静、蜿蜒的黄浦江打断(门票180元人民币)。对于摩天大楼爱好者来说,这座高耸的圆柱形大楼内还有一间让人大开眼界的博物馆,从中可以了解到各种逸闻趣事。这座大楼不仅有世界上最重的防止摇晃的减震器(1000吨),还有世界上最快的电梯,它能以每小时65公里的速度将游客迅速带到楼顶。
        Lodging         住宿
        The long-awaited Capella Shanghai, the Singapore-based luxury chain’s first China property, opened in September in a restored Shanghai shikumen lane complex originally built for French traders in the 1930s. The property features 55 villas set in three-story traditional houses with private courtyards and rooftop balconies, starting at 4,000 renminbi per night.        备受期待的上海嘉佩乐酒店(Capella Shanghai)是总部位于新加坡的奢华酒店连锁在中国开设的第一家酒店,它于9月开业,位于修复后的石库门建筑群,那里最初是20世纪30年代为法国贸易商建造的。该酒店共有55栋别墅,位于三层楼高的传统住宅里,带有私人庭院和屋顶阳台,每晚起价4000元人民币。
        Another recent arrival, the W Shanghai has a plum location just north of the Bund, providing stunning views of the Pudong skyline from the outdoor pool deck. A comical touch in the 374 rooms: pillows in the shape of soup dumplings and oversized chopsticks. Doubles from 1,680 renminbi per night.        另一家新开的酒店是上海外滩W酒店,它的位置很好,就在外滩往北一点,从它的室外游泳池能看到令人惊叹的浦东天际线美景。它的374间客房里配备着一套很滑稽的东西:汤包和超大筷子形状的抱枕。标准间每晚1680元。
                
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