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England's soccer manager has sparked a revival of the waistcoat — here's how tailors say you should wear one

来源:中国日报    2018-07-12 14:23

        England soccer manager Gareth Southgate is launching a revival.        英格兰队主帅盖雷斯•索斯盖特带动了一波复兴潮。
        Not only has he rejuvenated an England side that had previously not reached a World Cup semi-final in 28 years, but he's also brought the waistcoat back from the dead.        他不仅率领已28年无缘世界杯半决赛的英格兰队成功打入四强,还带火了已经在时尚圈沉寂已久的马甲。
        British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) says its waistcoat sales have doubled since the World Cup began on June 14, and searches for the garment on its website are up over 100%.        英国玛莎百货称,自从世界杯6月14日开赛以来,马甲销量已经翻倍,官网上马甲搜索量也已经翻番。
        Some customers even reported that M&S waistcoats had sold out in some sizes.        还有些顾客说玛莎百货一些码的马甲已经缺货。
        "Gareth's sideline style has meant our waistcoats are really scoring with our customers with sales doubling since the World Cup began," an M&S spokesperson said. "We've got enough different styles in stock for everyone to show their support for the boys."        玛莎百货一位发言人说:“索思盖特在球场边的着装带火了马甲,自世界杯开赛以来,马甲销量已经翻倍。我们的马甲款式足够多,所有人都可以以此表达他们对英格兰队的支持。”
        EBay has also reported a 25% increase in searches for waistcoats and tailoring retailer TM Lewin tweeted that sales were "going through the stadium roof."        易趣网上马甲的搜索量也已经增长了25%,制衣公司TM Lewin也在其推特上表示,马甲销量已经“直冲云霄”。
        England's semi-final clash against Croatia has been dubbed "Waistcoat Wednesday" by leading blood cancer charity Bloodwise.        血癌大型慈善机构“智慧血液”把英格兰队与克罗地亚队的半决赛之战称为“马甲星期三”。
        "As the whole country is gripped by football fever, and with Gareth's waistcoat-wearing having elevated him to the level of footballing fashionista, we thought that urging people to wear waistcoats on Wednesday would be a way of getting behind the boys at the same as raising money for a good cause," said Gemma Peters, chief executive of Bloodwise.        该机构董事长吉玛•彼得斯说:“整个英国都在为足球疯狂。索斯盖特身穿马甲的形象让他成为绿茵场的时尚偶像。我们认为鼓励大家在周三穿马甲既可以对英格兰队表示支持,还可以以此为慈善募捐。”
        Southgate is something of an unlikely fashionista, though. On his new role as a style icon, Southgate told the BBC's Gabby Logan: "As a centre-half with a face like I've got, then that's a very rare position to be in. I'm not David Beckham, so, we're in trouble Gabby!"        但索斯盖特看起来不像是个时尚咖。在成为时尚偶像后,他告诉英国广播公司的加比•洛根说:“作为一个其貌不扬的中卫,成为时尚界新宠不太寻常。我不是大卫•贝克汉姆,所以现在你看,我遇到麻烦了。”
        So popular is the manager's sartorial look, though, that the craze has transcended English buyers.        索斯盖特的马甲着装也让英国之外的人们着迷。
        "I saw him at England versus Colombia and I thought: 'He looks good,'" Ivan Novikov, a Moscow tax consultant, told The Telegraph. "I don't even know his name."        莫斯科一位税务顾问伊万•诺维科夫告诉《每日电讯报》说:“英格兰对阵哥伦比亚的比赛中我就注意到他了,我当时就想,‘他看上去太帅了’。我连他的名字都不知道。”
        1.         确保马甲的长度能盖住衬衫。
        "When wearing a waistcoat, the key things to look out for are making sure that it's long enough to cover your shirt entirely — with no gap between the waistcoat and trousers," Jack Stammers and Will Davison, the men behind the London tailors, said.        这家伦敦时装店的老板杰克•斯塔莫斯和威尔•戴维森说:“穿马甲关键是要注意确保马甲够长,能盖住整个衬衫,这样马甲和裤子之间不会有衬衫露出来。”
        Many fans have been caught out breaking this golden rule — here's a good example of how not to wear it:        很多马甲粉的穿着方式都是不对的,下面就是个错误的例子:
        2.         不要系腰带
        Davison and Stammers also say you shouldn't wear a belt if you're opting for a waistcoat as "this can add unneeded bulk to the waist with the extra layer and also break up the line of the suit."        戴维森和斯塔莫斯还说,穿马甲时不要系腰带,因为“这会让腰部肥上一圈,根本没必要,还会毁掉服装的线条。”
        3.         马甲要合身,但不要太紧
        The fit is also very important. Eagle-eyed viewers will notice that Southgate's vest is fitted without being tight, which Davison and Stammers say is key. "[It] can be a tricky balance. If having your suit made, request a tonal lining for the back to avoid looking like a snooker player or waiter."        合身也很重要。眼尖的观众会注意到,索斯盖特的马甲很合身,但又不紧,戴维森和斯塔莫斯都说这很关键。“这个度不太好把握。如果你专门定制,就要求在背部加一条配色线,这样就不会看起来像是斯诺克台球选手或者服务生了。”
        The tailors say prospective waistcoat-wearers should look to another former footballer Rio Ferdinand for inspiration, who's recently been extolled by GQ for his style.        他们还说,想把马甲穿出范儿的人还应该向前球星里奥•费迪南德取取经,最近GQ杂志还称赞了他的衣品。
        4.         留一颗扣子
        One piece of waistcoat etiquette that both Southgate and Ferdinand fail to observe, though, is leaving one button on the vest unfastened — either top or bottom. It's not clear when this rule was developed, but one theory suggests it was King Edward VII who popularised the style because he was too portly to do all the buttons up.        但索斯盖特和费迪南德都没有做到的是,应该留一颗扣子,最上面或者最下面的一颗都行。人们并不清楚这种穿衣风格由何而来,但有一种说法认为,英国国王爱德华七世是这种穿法的普及者,因为他太胖,系不上所有的扣子。

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