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36小时玩转清迈
36 Hours in Chiang Mai

来源:纽约时报    2018-09-06 05:53



        Traditionally, tourists have trekked to the star of Thailand’s north in search of M.E.A.T.: markets, elephants, artisans and temples. And Chiang Mai, a laid-back old riverside city whose population (fewer than 200,000) is a fraction of Bangkok’s (more than eight million), obliges those fantasies. But these days the 700-year-old city is brimming with far more modern attractions, too, namely the works of artists and designers. Thanks to a blossoming creative scene, a Chiang Mai weekend now offers the chance to soak up contemporary art in world-class exhibition spaces, purchase stylish 21st-century design in new shops and craft villages, and sleep in gallery-like new hotels, from the frivolous to the fancy. The culinary and night life scenes are also thriving, with ambitious upstart restaurants and a buzzing bar district joining the city’s traditional eating rooms and street-food zones. Just be careful to avoid Chiang Mai in March and April, when the region’s farmers burn brush and overgrowth en masse, filling the air with smoke and ash.        传统上,千里迢迢前往泰国北部之星的游客们,寻找的是M.E.A.T.:市场(markets)、大象(elephants)、匠人(artisans)和寺庙(temples)。清迈作为一座休闲的河畔古城,完全能满足所有这些幻想;它的人口不到20万,是曼谷800万人口的一个零头。但这座拥有700年历史的城市,现在也充满了很多的现代景点,即那些来自艺术家和设计师的作品。由于创作领域的繁荣,现在在清迈过周末,就有机会在世界级的展览空间里领略当代艺术,在新的店铺和工艺村购买21世纪的时尚设计,在画廊般的新酒店里过夜,价格有简有奢。美食和夜生活也是相当热闹,雄心勃勃的新餐厅和一个喧闹的酒吧区,与该城传统的餐厅和路边美食区成鼎立之势。不过三四月份就不要去清迈了,在那个时间段,当地的农民要焚烧秸秆,空气中尘雾弥漫。
        Friday        周五
        1) 5 p.m. HANDMADE HAVEN        1)下午5点 手工艺品的聚集地
        Handmade creations abound along Charoenrat Road. Siam meets Soho at Woo, a cafe and concept store that blooms with Thai creativity — literally — starting with plants and exquisite floral arrangements. The upstairs art gallery exhibits painting and sculpture, while the boutique’s wide-ranging collection includes rice extract lip balm, minimalist ceramics, kaleidoscopic hippie-chic dresses and a skull covered with tiny white seashells that would make Damien Hirst jealous. Down the street, The Meeting Room Art Cafe is piled with stacks of prints and canvases by local artists — all for sale — while elegant Sop Moei Arts sells textile creations to decorate your body or home, from scarves to embroidered wall hangings.        Charoenrat路是买手工艺品的好地方。暹罗和苏荷在Woo相遇。这是一家咖啡馆和概念店,泰式创意在这里绽放——是真的有花朵绽放——从植物和精致的插花开始。楼上的艺廊展出绘画和雕塑,而精品店里的商品则包罗万象,有大米提取物润唇膏、极简主义风格的陶瓷、千变万化的嬉皮风连衣裙,以及覆盖着白色小贝壳、能让达米恩·赫斯特(Damien Hirst)都嫉妒的骷髅。沿街而行,你会看到The Meeting Room Art Cafe咖啡馆,里面堆满了当地艺术家的版画和油画作品(全都可以出售);而高雅的Sop Moei Arts出售各种创意纺织品,从装饰你的身体到装饰你的家,从围巾到刺绣壁挂。
        2) 7 p.m. THE PING AND I        2)晚上7点 平江与我
        For a sunset drink on the Ping River, the most stylish hangout is On the Ping (outdoor lounge), in the Sala Lanna hotel. With its swimming pool, white lanterns, white canopies and white couches, the back lawn channels the spirit of St.-Tropez. The menu, meanwhile, includes house cocktails like the Ping River (vodka, lychee, lemongrass and lime; 290 baht, or about $8.70), Thai craft beers and even Thai rosé.        如果想日落时分在平江(Ping River)喝一杯,最时尚的去处就是Sala Lanna酒店里的户外酒吧On the Ping。游泳池、白灯笼、白顶篷和白沙发,还有后院草坪,营造出法国圣特罗佩的感觉。酒单上,你会看到Ping River(成分包括伏特加、荔枝、柠檬草和青柠,价格290泰铢)这样的特色鸡尾酒,还有泰式精酿啤酒,甚至泰式桃红葡萄酒。
        3) 9 p.m.  QUIRKY AND ROMANTIC        3)晚上9点 搞怪和罗曼蒂克
        It looks as if some eccentric, globe-trotting English lord is behind Ginger & Kafe restaurant. Who else would dare add sliced cucumber and toast points to the chicken satay? Who else would include scones in the dessert menu? And who but an aristocratic British bloke would decorate the space with chandeliers, armchairs, Oriental rugs, lacquered chests, flickering candles and other drawing-room accouterments? English lord or not, Ginger & Kafe is a quirkily romantic place to pop the question, or simply your gut — courtesy of braised beef in lime-coconut reduction, pork ribs in tamarind sauce, or a red curry with duck breast and tropical fruits. (A three-course meal for two costs around 1,800 baht.)        Ginger & Kafe餐厅背后的老板,似乎是某个环游世界的古怪英国贵族。不然,还有谁敢在沙茶酱鸡肉里加上黄瓜片和烤面包片呢?还有谁,会在甜点单里加上司康饼呢?除了英国贵族,谁会用枝形吊灯、扶手椅、东方地毯、漆面柜、闪烁的蜡烛和其他的客厅装备来装饰这个空间呢?不管是不是英国贵族在背后,Ginger & Kafe都是一个适合求婚的古怪浪漫之处,哪怕只是来这里填饱肚子——青柠椰汁炖牛肉、罗望子酱排骨、红咖喱鸭胸肉加热带水果(两人份三道菜大约1800泰铢)。
        Then move to the adjoining House Lounge, another elegant throwback where monkeys and birds frolic (on the wallpaper) and vases of plants and flowers complete the jungle lodge vibe. A Colonial Cordial (Scotch, Papidoux calvados, Grand Marnier, thyme liqueur, bitters; 350 baht) is practically a must, and dress code is B.Y. O. P. H.: Bring your own pith helmet.        吃完,移驾隔壁的House Lounge,这里也是老式的优雅风格,猴子和鸟在墙纸上嬉戏,瓶子里的花花草草营造出丛林小屋的氛围。来一杯“殖民地甜饮”(Colonial Cordial)是必须的(成分包括苏格兰威士忌、帕普多克斯苹果白兰地、金万利力娇酒、百里香利口酒、苦味酒;价格350泰铢),着装要求是B.Y. o.p. H:带上你的木髓盔(Bring your own pith helmet)。
        Saturday        周六
        4) 10 a.m. WISDOM OF THE WAT        4)上午10点:寺院的智慧
        First the bad news: “All things arise, exist and expire.” On the other hand: “Detachment is a great way to relax.” Such are just a few of the maxims on signs that adorn trees in Wat Umong, a forested sprawl of temples, pavilions, statues, fountains and lakes. Founded in the late 13th century and still home to many Buddhist monks, the complex is best known for its bell-shaped, 14th-century stone pagoda — reached by stone stairs lined with scaly beasts — and rock caverns filled with Buddha statues and figurines in the niches and alcoves. Beat the heat by arriving in the morning and taking a meditative stroll amid a soundtrack of birds, roosters, chants and bells.        先是坏消息:“万物成住坏空。”另一方面:“超然是放松的好办法。”这些是写在悟孟寺(Wat Umong)树木标志上的一些格言,庞大的悟孟寺位于森林之中,有寺庙、亭子、雕像、喷泉和湖泊。该建筑群建于13世纪末,如今仍然是许多佛教僧侣的家园,这里最出名的是14世纪的钟形石塔,它们有石头阶梯,边缘装饰着有鳞片的兽类;此外还有岩洞,里面有许多摆着佛像和小塑像的壁龛和凹洞。趁着早上凉快赶去那里,在鸟儿、公鸡、诵咏和铃铛的伴奏下,沉下心来漫步。
        5) Noon. A CRAFTY SCHEME        5)中午:手工艺计划
        The mood shifts from contemplation to creation in the nearby forest clearing containing Baan Kang Wat artisan village. Meandering paths lead to cafes, teahouses, juice stands, funky shops and craft studios selling everything from handmade paper goods to baby clothes. Follow the sound of hammer-tapping to Saprang, where the award-winning jewelry designer Supat Suwannasing makes delicate earrings and bracelets that often employ nature motifs like leaves and vines. Wood and ceramics are the choice materials at Bookoo Studio, which sells smooth and simple creations like bowls and chopping boards.        在附近的林间空地中,心情从沉思转变为创造,那里有寺边屋(Baan Kang Wat)工匠社区。蜿蜒的小路通往一个个咖啡馆、茶馆、果汁摊、时髦小店和匠人工作室,出售从手工纸品到婴儿服装等各种商品。沿着锤子敲击的声音找到Saprang,屡获大奖的珠宝设计师素巴·苏瓦纳辛(Supat Suwannasing)在那里制作精致的耳环和手镯,它们大都使用自然图案,比如树叶和藤蔓。木头和陶瓷是Bookoo工作室的首选材料,出售平滑简单的物品,比如碗和砧板。
        6) 2 p.m. PIG OUT        6)下午两点:狼吞虎咽
        Your lifelong quest to consume spicy frog soup and stir-fried ant eggs ends at Huen Muan Jai restaurant, another village-like sprawl of rustic wooden houses and pavilions. Porcine dreams are also satisfied, with a menu that features pork wrapped in banana leaves, tossed in jackfruit soup, stir-fried with mushrooms, encased in an omelet or cooked to cotton-ball softness in a red curry as thin and powerful as a flyweight boxer. More mainstream meats and fish also make appearances in local specialties like khao soy — a mix of chicken or beef with boiled and crispy noodles in sweet coconut broth — while desserts combine coconut milk with either bananas or corn and sticky rice to ambrosia-like effect. Two can lunch copiously for 600 baht.        你对辣田鸡汤和炒蚂蚁蛋的毕生追求,都可以在欢喜之家(Huen Muan Jai)餐厅得到满足,它是一片庞大的、乡村式的木屋和凉亭。你对猪肉的梦想也能得到满足,菜单里有香蕉叶裹猪肉、菠萝蜜汤猪肉、蘑菇炒猪肉、煎蛋卷裹猪肉、还有红咖喱炖猪肉,像棉球一样柔软,像轻量级拳击手一样又瘦又有嚼劲。还有其他用主流肉类和鱼类做成的当地特色菜,比如金面——鸡肉或牛肉混在煮熟的脆面条里,放在甜椰子汤中——而甜点则是椰奶与香蕉或玉米和糯米混合在一起,简直是珍馐美味。两人花600泰铢可以饱餐一顿丰盛的午餐。
        7) 4 p.m. CREATIVE CORRIDORS        7)下午4点:创意走廊
        You can hardly hurl a beret without hitting an art or design business on Nimmanhaemin Road’s side streets. Local artists have contributed to almost every space in Art Mai? Gallery Hotel, from the themed rooms to the restaurant’s recipes, but nowhere more so than the ground-floor art gallery (well curated, with artist biographies in English) and boutique (which sells drawings and canvases, along with artist-designed scarves and bags).        在尼曼路(Nimmanhaemin Road)侧面的小路上丢出一顶贝雷帽,几乎肯定会打中一家艺术或设计小店。当地艺术家几乎为清迈艺术画廊酒店(Art Mai? Gallery Hotel)的每个空间都做出了贡献,从主题房间到餐厅的食谱,但最重要的是一楼的艺术画廊(经过精心策展,出售英文艺术家传记)和精品店(出售素描和油画,以及艺术家设计的围巾和包袋)。
        Southward, Gallery Seescape has rotating exhibitions and also showcases the work of its founder, Torlarp Larpjaroensook — including his dreamy abstract paintings and playful robot sculptures — while Jojo Kobe specializes in screen prints by artists like Kittisak Chaimoonta (notable for his surreal, dark humanoid figures) and Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon (a devotee of colorful abstraction). Farther south, a sculptural white unicorn announces Chiang Mai University Art Center, a Le Corbusier-inspired concrete-and-glass structure filled with airy white galleries, modernist Bauhaus lines, rotating contemporary art exhibitions — and puzzlingly few visitors.        向南走是Seescape画廊,除了轮展,还展示其创始人托拉普·拉普贾罗恩苏克(Torlarp Larpjaroensook)的作品——包括他梦幻般的抽象绘画和俏皮的机器人雕塑。而Jojo Kobe画廊则专门展出丝网印作品,比如吉迪萨克·差穆塔(Kittisak Chaimoonta),他的作品以其超现实、黑暗的人形闻名;还有泰维吉特·普恩卡赛索姆布恩(Thaiwijit Puengkasemsomboon),他热衷多彩的抽象画。再往南,一尊白色独角兽雕塑是清迈大学艺术中心(Chiang Mai University Art Center)的标志,那是一栋勒·柯布西耶(Le Corbusier)风格的混凝土玻璃建筑,布满通风的白色画廊、现代主义的包豪斯线条,有当代艺术轮展,令人费解的是,几乎没什么游客。
        8) 7 p.m. SEAFOOD SPEAKEASY        8)晚上7点:轻松海鲜
        How do you like your crab fat? If you answered, “As a warm brown gravy for a crispy crab meat won ton with pickled local cabbage, please,” then you will get along swimmingly with Blackitch Artisan Kitchen. Another hidden gem off Nimmanhaemin Road, the cult restaurant is not fancy (simple cement floor and tile tables), not romantic (bright lighting), not large (barely space for a dozen), not easy to reserve (you must book the day before you want to dine), not easy to find (one floor above street level and almost unmarked) and not abounding with choices (the nightly set menu, at 1,800 baht, is the only option). But the imaginative seafood-rich dishes are exceptional: roasted, basted catfish in a juice made from its own head and tail on a velvety sweet purée of lotus seed boiled in coconut oil; or perhaps a seaweed-wrapped mackerel nugget topped with salmon roe on a cube of smoked yuzu-marinated rice larded with river shrimp and pink petals. Whatever the chef’s whim, it will likely be precise, daring and exquisite.        你想怎么吃蟹肉?如果你回答说:“请用温的棕色肉汁煮香脆的蟹肉馄饨,配上腌制的本地卷心菜,”来到Blackitch亚洲厨房,你定能一切如愿。这家小众餐厅是尼曼路附近另一块隐藏的宝石,它不花哨(只有简单的水泥地板和瓷片桌子)、不浪漫(灯光很明亮)、不大(只有十几个位子)、不容易预订(必须在用餐前一天订)、不好找(在二层,几乎没有标记),而且选择不多(只有1800泰铢的夜间套餐)。但菜肴充满想象力,非常特别,有各种海鲜:烤鲶鱼淋上用鱼头鱼尾腌的汁,配上丝滑的莲子甜糊,用椰子油煮;还有海苔包裹的鲭鱼块,上面放着鲑鱼子,盖在用烟熏柚子腌制的米饭上,还点缀着河虾和粉红色的花瓣。不管厨师怎么心血来潮,都显得严谨、大胆和精致。
        9) 10 p.m. BEER AND BOTANICALS        9)晚上10点:啤酒和植物
        Along nearby Nimmanhaemin Road you can travel the world in 80 beers — more, in fact — at Beer Lab. The convivial outdoor bar draws college kids, N.G.O. workers, expats and local young professionals with its menu of beers from the United States, Australia, Europe, Asia and beyond, including Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale from Japan (310 baht) and Chiang Mai’s own Tropical Wheat beer (220 baht). Or you can soar above the city at the open-air rooftop bar of the Hotel Yayee. Plants hang from the rafters and sometimes end up in your drink, too, thanks to botanically infused cocktails (260 baht) like Ananda’s Flyboy (juniper spirit, aloe vera, thyme and white grape).        沿着尼曼路附近,你可以在啤酒实验室(Beer Lab)品尝世界各地的80种啤酒——事实上还有更多。这个欢乐的户外酒吧提供来自美国、澳大利亚、欧洲、亚洲及其他地区的啤酒,包括日本的常陆野赤米酒(310泰铢)和清迈本地的热带小麦啤酒(220泰铢),吸引着大学生、非盈利组织的工作人员、外籍人士和当地年轻的专业人士。你也可以在亚伊酒店(Hotel Yayee)的露天屋顶酒吧上俯瞰城市。在那里,房椽上悬挂着植物,有时它们也会出现在你的饮料里,因为这里提供掺有植物的鸡尾酒(260泰铢),比如Ananda’s Flyboy(用杜松子酒、芦荟、百里香和白葡萄制成)。
        Sunday        星期日
        10) 11 a.m. ART OF ASIA        10)上午11点:亚洲艺术
        Surely you have wondered: What would happen if Hieronymus Bosch was reincarnated as a LSD dealer with a pop-culture obsession in 21st-century Thailand? He might create something similar to artist Navin Rawanchaikul’s “Super(M)art Bangkok Survivor,” a huge, frenzied, feverish, cartoonish wall-size painting that bursts with debauched Thai characters, real and invented, including a Kalashnikov-toting Buddha; vomiting tattooed monks; elephants; Vespas; blimps and the famous twins, Chang and Eng Bunker. The work is the marquee attraction of MAIIAM, a world-class museum that opened in 2016. The permanent collection of Thai contemporary art also features playful and sinister severed sculptural limbs by Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook, and paintings of pained, howling faces by Chatchai Puipia. MAIIAM is about 30 minutes from the city by taxi or ride share. Admission: 150 baht.        你肯定想知道:如果耶罗尼米斯·博斯(Hieronymus Bosch)转世为21世纪泰国一个迷恋流行文化的LSD贩子会怎么样?他可能会创作类似艺术家阿运·拉挽猜哥(Navin Rawanchaikul)的《超级(市场)艺术曼谷幸存者》(Super[M]art Bangkok Survivor)这样的作品,这是一幅巨大、狂乱、疯狂、卡通化的壁画,充满了道德败坏的泰国人物,有真实的,也有虚构的,包括佩有卡拉什尼科夫步枪的佛陀;呕吐的纹身僧侣;大象;伟士牌轻型摩托(Vespas);大胖子和著名的连体双胞胎:昌和恩·邦卡(Chang and Eng Bunker)。这幅作品是2016年开放的世界级博物馆MAIIAM的招牌展品。它的泰国当代艺术永久馆藏还包括阿拉雅·拉斯贾姆里亚恩苏克(Araya Rasdjarmrearnsook)俏皮阴险的雕塑断肢,以及差猜·普伊皮亚(Chatchai Puipia)痛苦嚎叫的面孔画作。从市区出发,乘坐出租车或搭顺风车,大约30分钟可以到达MAIIAM。门票:150泰铢。
        Accommodations        住宿
        Somebody likes bikes at Room No. 7 Hotel (9 Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, 66-63-797-7997), which opened in 2016 in the Nimmanhaemin Road district. Some of the 21 rooms have a motorcycle theme (others are more minimalist white or gray), and common areas are decorated with vintage Vespas and motorbikes. Doubles from 1,250 baht.        有人喜欢7号房间酒店(9 尼曼路 7,66-63-797-7997)的摩托车,该酒店于2016年在尼曼路区开业。21间客房中,部分客房拥有摩托车主题(其他房间是更为简约的白色或灰色风格),公共区域装饰着复古的轻型摩托和摩托车。两人间1250泰铢。
        A luxurious and stylish option along the riverfront, the 19-room Hotel des Artists Ping Silhouette (181 Charoenrat Road, 66-53-249-999) is a jigsaw of right angles and dark colors with pool, spa, tearoom, restaurant and large groomed backyard lounge along the water. Doubles from 4,000 baht.        沿着河边还有其他豪华时尚的选择,比如拥有19间客房的Hotel des Artists Ping Silhouette(查隆叻路181号,66-53-249-999)如同一幅深色方块拼图,有游泳池、水疗中心、茶室、餐厅,后院有宽大整洁的休息室。两人间4000泰铢。
        If you do plan a trip to Chiang Mai, check out these suggestions on what to pack for the trip from our colleagues at Wirecutter.        如果你计划去清迈旅行,请查看我们在Wirecutter的同事关于准备旅行的建议。
                
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