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The Chicest Store in Milan Comes to New York

来源:纽约时报    2018-09-12 10:55

        There were pedestrians ambling and drinkers drinking alfresco on the warm June day that Carla Sozzani stood outside what would shortly become 10 Corso Como New York, the American outpost of her pioneering Italian concept shop. That descriptor, now common for boutiques that stock not only fashion, but also art, furniture, books and whatever else tickles their proprietors, could well have been coined for hers. (According to her, it was.)        今年6月的一个温暖日子里,行人在街头漫步,饮客在户外喝酒,卡拉·索珊尼(Carla Sozzani)站在不久会成为10 Corso Como纽约店的建筑外,这是她的先锋性意大利概念店在美国打出的前站。概念店这种描述如今常用于某些精品店,这些店不只卖时装,也出售艺术品、家具、书籍,以及所有让店家感兴趣的产品,这个叫法完全可能是为她的店创造的。(据她说,的确是。)
        “It has the feel of an Italian piazza, no?” Ms. Sozzani said on a site visit to New York, looking out toward the water. “I hope it stays like this.”        “这里有一种意大利城镇广场的感觉,不是吗?”索珊尼在一次来纽约实地考察时说,她眼望着东河。“我希望保持这个样子。”
        But we were at the South Street Seaport — cobblestoned, yes, but not often imagined as Italianate — a New York landmark that has had many lives: bustling port, scrubby artists’ community, hurricane victim, tourist trap. Ms. Sozzani’s store is part of its continuing transformation.        不过,我们是在南街海港(South Street Seaport)——路面是鹅卵石的,这没错,但并不常让人想起意大利风格。这个纽约地标有过许多前世:繁忙的港口、寒酸的艺术家社区,遭受过飓风的侵袭,也是敲游客竹杠的地方。索珊尼的店是这里不断转变的一部分。
        10 Corso Como is to be one of the tent poles of the new new Seaport, which its developer, the Howard Hughes Corporation, hopes to coax into a hub of culture and commerce in New York City.        10 Corso Como将成为新海港的顶梁柱之一,开发商霍华德·休斯公司希望把这里打造成纽约市的一处文化商业中心。
        The company is betting on Ms. Sozzani as one of the new local attractions to do the pulling. Its chief executive, David R. Weinreb, spent five years courting her, and the developer is a partner with her on the store.        公司把赌注押在索珊尼身上,希望她的店会成为吸引人气的当地新景点之一。公司首席执行官大卫·R·温瑞布(David R. Weinreb)用了五年的时间争取她来开店,这家开发商与她是商店的共同合伙人。
        “She was initially not interested in opening a store in New York,” Mr. Weinreb said. “There were dozens of calls to her.” With the store now about to open, Mr. Weinreb added, he is confident “Carla will in fact be the pillar that we wanted in the area.” (The company declined to comment on the terms of the partnership, though Hughes has been known to subsidize rent for its commercial tenants.)        “她最初没兴趣来纽约开店,”温瑞布说。“给她打过几十个电话。”如今商店开张在即,温瑞布补充说,他对“卡拉将实际上成为我们在这片地区所希望的顶梁柱”充满信心。(公司拒绝就合伙关系条款置评,但以前有过休斯为其商业租户提供租金补贴的情况。)
        Ms. Sozzani’s original 10 Corso Como — at number 10 Corso Como, in a former garage in the Porta Nuova neighborhood of Milan — opened in 1991, and in the 27 years since, it has become a much imitated blueprint for high-end retail. The store sells luxury fashion from Prada, Gucci, Dior and Comme des Garçons, along with artists’ editions and ceramics.        索珊尼最初的那家10 Corso Como于1991年开业,店址是科摩大道(Corso Como)10号,位于米兰新港(Porta Nuova)街区以前的一个车库里。在那以后的27年中,这家店已成为一个被高端零售业广为模仿的蓝本。店里出售普拉达(Prada)、古驰(Gucci)、迪奥(Dior)和Comme des Garcons品牌的奢侈时装,艺术家版本的书籍,以及陶瓷制品。
        Ms. Sozzani had been a magazine editor before opening the store — she was famously fired from the Italian edition of Elle — and considered her store a kind of living magazine. It was a place to browse and linger as well as to buy. (She put chairs everywhere for the purpose.)        开店前,索珊尼曾在一家杂志担任编辑——她被意大利版《ELLE》杂志解雇的事儿挺有名的——她把自己的店看作是一种活的杂志。除了买东西,店里也是让人浏览、逗留的地方。(为了这个目的,她的店里到处都摆着座椅。)
        The store opened around the time of the Slow Food movement, and Ms. Sozzani envisioned a slow shopping. 10 Corso Como began life as a photography gallery, and now includes a bookstore, a cafe and restaurant, and an on-site, three-room hotel.        这家店的开业正逢慢食运动兴起之时,索珊尼想到了慢购物。米兰的10 Corso Como最初是以一个摄影作品陈列室开始的,现在它包括一个书店、一个咖啡馆和餐厅,以及一个三间客房的酒店。
        “Today, it’s so obvious,” Ms. Sozzani said. “At the beginning, it was difficult. People did not really know what it was.” Her store, set back from the main drag of the promenade, had no windows on the street. Its front courtyard was a garden.        “今天,这显而易见,”索珊尼说。“开始的时候很困难。人们不明白它到底是什么东西。”她的店设在远离最繁华的步行大道的地方,也没有临街的窗户。店的前院是个花园。
        Fashion can be a racy business, in speed and in sensuality, but Ms. Sozzani, 71, with her whitened blonde curls and immaculate wardrobe, has calmly and cannily lasted out the tidal cycles of trend and counter-trend. In a moment of click-to-buy instantaneity, Ms. Sozzani looks like a luxury abbess, a lone beacon of calm.        时尚可能是碗青春饭,讲速度,拼感官,但是,梳着泛白的金色卷发、一身干净利落打扮的71岁的索珊尼,已淡定且精明地度过了几轮流行与逆流行的潮流起伏。在这个点击购买的即时性时代,索珊尼看上去像是一位奢侈品的女修院院长,一座孤零零的坦然自若的灯塔。
        From its roots in Italy, 10 Corso Como has unfurled widely. There are branches around the world, in Shanghai, Beijing and Seoul; the 28,000-square-foot Seaport shop, which opens Sept. 7, is the first in the United States.        10 Corso Como已经从其意大利的根基慢慢发展为分布极广的连锁店。分店开到了世界各地,上海、北京、首尔都有;9月7日开张的面积为2.8万平方英尺的海港店,是美国的第一家。
        It sits all on one floor, where books run seamlessly into tchotchkes into high-end fashion into a gallery space, which will have a separate entrance. For the opening, Ms. Sozzani is showing photography by Helmut Newton and a lighting installation — for sale — by Michael Anastassiades.        全店只占一个楼层,店里展示的东西不知不觉地从书籍过渡到小摆设,再到高端时装,再到一个画廊,画廊还有一个单独的入口。索珊尼在开业仪式上展出了赫尔穆特·牛顿(Helmut Newton)的摄影作品,以及迈克尔·阿纳斯塔西亚德斯(Michael Anastassiades)的一件灯具装置——这件可以出售。
        Like its brethren, this 10 Corso Como includes a restaurant and bar. And as with all the Corso Comos, Ms. Sozzani’s partner, Kris Ruhs, has decorated the space with the usual sunburst motifs and scribbly 10 Corso Como logo, with hand-wrought tiles and mosaics, and vases of the glass flowers that signal that, wherever in the world one is, one is still in Ms. Sozzani’s garden.        与其他分店一样,这家10 Corso Como也包括一个餐厅和酒吧。同所有其他店铺一样,索珊尼的合作伙伴克里斯·鲁斯(Kris Ruhs)给店内做了装饰,他照例用了云开日出的图案和信手写下的10 Corso Como店标,并用手工瓷砖和马赛克、以及一个插着玻璃花的花瓶来表明,不管你在世界上什么地方,你仍待在索珊尼的花园里。
        Whether this will be enough of a draw to lure New York’s luxury shoppers off Madison Avenue and out of SoHo is a potent question. The Hughes Corporation has invested significant energy and resources into rebuilding the area, which was battered by Hurricane Sandy in 2012, and also seems intent on scrubbing away the memory of its prior life as a grubbier sort of mall and out-of-towners’ entertainment.        这是否足以把纽约的奢侈品购买者从麦迪逊大街、从苏荷区吸引过来,是个强有力的问题。休斯公司投入了巨大的能量和资源来重建这片在2012年饱受飓风“桑迪”摧残的地区,公司似乎还打算洗刷人们对这个地区前世的记忆,这里曾有过更简陋的商场,是外地人消遣的地方。
        “Over the years, the district has been loved by New Yorkers, but it really became a tourist trap,” said Saul Scherl, the president of the New York Tri-State Region for Howard Hughes.        “这个地区多年来一直受到纽约人的喜爱,但它的确成了一个敲游客竹杠的地方。”霍华德·休斯公司纽约三州都会区总裁索尔·舍尔(Saul Scherl)说。
        Further openings are well underway, part of a rebranding of the area that Howard Hughes hopes will draw foot traffic and, ultimately, more commercial tenants. (Plans for a residential tower were scrapped in 2015 after an outcry from the community.)        还有更多店铺将陆续开张,这都是重建地区品牌工作的一部分,霍华德·休斯希望以此吸引更多人流量,从而最终吸引来更多的商业租户。(本来还有盖一座高层住宅楼的计划,遭当地社区抗议之后,于2015年取消。)
        “By 2020, we’ll have approximately 70 percent more retail than we had in 2014,” said Jessica Lappin, the president of the Downtown Alliance, whose territory, south of Chambers Street, includes the Seaport.        “到2020年,我们的零售额将比2014年大约增长70%,”下城联盟主席杰西卡·拉平(Jessica Lappin)说,下城联盟的辖区为钱伯斯街(Chambers Street)以南,包括海港。
        Sarah Jessica Parker’s SJP Collection store is under construction opposite 10 Corso Como, and a Roberto Cavalli boutique will open next door to a Big Gay Ice Cream shop soon. Mr. C Seaport, a boutique hotel run by Maggio and Ignazio Cipriani, the younger generation of the famous Cipriani hospitality family, opened its doors in July.        10 Corso Como对面,莎拉·杰西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)的SJP Collection门店正在施工,Big Gay冰激凌店隔壁很快要开张一家Roberto Cavalli精品店。7月开业的C先生海港酒店(Mr. C Seaport)是一家精品酒店,由招待性行业著名的奇普里亚尼家族的年轻一代、马吉奥与伊尼亚齐奥·奇普里亚尼(Maggio and Ignazio Cipriani)经营。
        “When I moved in, there was literally nothing in the area,” said Ignazio Cipriani, who lived for 10 years in the nearby financial district.        “我刚搬到这里时,这一带真的什么都没有,”伊尼亚齐奥·奇普里亚尼说,他在附近的金融区住过十年。
        For all that, the area is still off the beaten track for many, as Aurora James, the founder and creative director of Brother Vellies, a made-in-Africa designer accessories label, learned when she teamed with Howard Hughes to open a shop on Fulton Street in 2014.        虽然如此,这个地区对许多人来说仍很偏僻,正如奥罗拉·詹姆斯(Aurora James)2014年与霍华德·休斯合作在富尔顿街(Fulton Street)开店时发现的那样,詹姆斯是非洲制造的设计配饰品牌Brother Vellies的创始人兼创意总监。
        “The initial reaction when I would say the South Street Seaport was confusion and shock,” Ms. James said about the location for a brand like hers. The most frequent visitors, she added, were “tourists that came in smelling like Abercrombie and Fitch.”        “说起南街海港,我的第一反应是不知所措,并有点吃惊,”詹姆斯提到把自己品牌的这种商店建在该地时说。她补充说,这里最常见的顾客是,“进来时一身都是Abercrombie & Fitch气味的观光客。”
        Ms. James closed her shop earlier this year and relocated to the Greenpoint section of Brooklyn.        今年早些时候,詹姆斯关了这家店,搬到了布鲁克林的绿点区(Greenpoint)。
        “I was so grateful for that to be a community and world for us for a certain time,” she said of the Seaport area. “But, ultimately, I need to be in an authentically creative area, which is why I moved to Brooklyn.”        “我对把那里作为我们的社区、我们的天地的那段时间充满感激之心,”她提到海港区时说。“但说到底,我需要到一个真实创意的地区去,所以我搬到布鲁克林来了。”
        Could Ms. Sozzani change that perception? The Hughes Corporation hopes so, and she herself is stretching out of her usual comfort zone to try.        索珊尼能改变这种看法吗?休斯公司希望她能,她本人也在为进行尝试拓广到自己通常的舒适区外。
        “I was very close to Azzedine Alaïa, and he used to say, ‘Every day I learn something. I am a debutante, every day,’” she said. “That’s the way it should be.”        “我和阿瑟丁·阿拉亚(Azzedine Alaïa)很熟,他曾经说,‘每天我都学到一些东西。每天我都是初出茅庐,’”她说。“就应该是这样。”

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