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36 Hours in Singapore

来源:纽约时报    2018-11-02 09:32

        Singapore’s main island is sometimes described as diamond-shaped — fitting, perhaps, since the sparkling city, which had a starring role in the movie “Crazy Rich Asians,” is known for its materialistic pursuits. But look past Singapore’s shiny veneer and you’ll find a compression of Chinese, Indian, Malay and other heritages reaching back far beyond the city state’s half-century history as an independent nation. And thanks to the superb street food and efficient public transit, you don’t have to be crazy rich to enjoy this cinematic city, which is now more accessible than ever with Singapore Airlines’ new nonstop service from Newark.        新加坡的主岛有时被形容是个钻石形——或许这么说很合适,因为这座熠熠生辉的城市以其物质追求而闻名,在电影《疯狂的亚洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)中亦扮演了主角。但是看看新加坡那些闪亮的装饰,你会发现它浓缩了中国、印度、马来和其他遗产,远远超出了这个城邦作为独立国家的半个世纪历史。由于一流的街头食品和高效的公共交通,你不必极度富有,就可以享受这个电影般的城市,现在新加坡航空公司提供从纽瓦克出发的不间断新航班,前往那里变得前所未有地方便了。
        Friday        星期五
        1) 5 p.m. In Good Faith        1)下午5点。真心诚意
        Begin your visit with a snapshot of Singapore’s past and present on Telok Ayer Street, where Chinese immigrants once arrived on boats. Though land reclamation projects have since filled in the waterfront and gleaming skyscrapers have sprouted around this narrow street, shrines and temples of many creeds have persevered in this faithfully preserved neighborhood. Linger for a few quiet minutes inside Thian Hock Keng, a carefully restored 19th-century temple built by Hokkien immigrants to give thanks for a safe passage across the sea. Past the minarets and arches of the nearby Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre, walk deeper into Chinatown, where Sri Mariamman, the nation’s oldest Hindu temple, invites visitors to admire the ornate gopuram (gatehouse tower) and colorful shrines.        在旅程的起点,去直落亚逸街迅速浏览一遍新加坡的过去和现在,这里是中国移民曾经乘船登陆的地方。虽然填海工程已经填满了海滨,闪闪发光的摩天大楼已在这条狭窄的街道周围拔地而起,来自不同宗派的神龛和寺庙依然坚守在这个被忠实保存的社区之中。在天福宫内享受几分钟的清净,这是一座经过精心修复的19世纪寺庙,是福建移民为感谢上天让他们安全穿越大海而建造的。经过附近的纳哥德卡印度穆斯林遗产中心(Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre)的尖塔和拱门,深入唐人街,全国最古老的印度教寺庙马里安曼庙(Sri Mariamman)正在那里招呼游客来欣赏华丽的gopuram(门楼塔)和色彩缤纷的神龛。
        2) 7 p.m. Forget Singaporean Noodles        2)晚上7点。忘记新加坡面条吧
        Hawker centers, or food courts, are a quick introduction to Singapore’s pan-Asian palate, allowing diners to sample dishes like crab fried in chili sauce, chicken poached with ginger, and roti served with a fiery curry sauce. Locals debate which hawker center serves the best rendition of a particular dish. Lau Pa Sat distinguishes itself with its soaring cast-iron frame and national monument designation. At night, vendors grilling meat on skewers take over the adjacent Boon Tat Street, erasing the boundary between this lively hawker center and the rest of the city. If you want a more down-home atmosphere, Amoy Street Food Centre (7 Maxwell Road) is popular among locals and Michelin Bib Gourmand critics alike. Expect to pay 3 to 6 Singapore dollars, or about $2.25 to $4.50, for a filling entree.        在摊贩中心或美食广场可以快速了解新加坡的泛亚洲口味,食客可以品尝到辣酱汁炒蟹、姜炖鸡,以及搭配超辣咖喱酱汁的烤肉等简单菜肴。当地人总在争论哪个摊贩中心才有最美味的某种菜肴。老巴刹(Lau Pa Sat)以其高耸的铸铁框架和国家纪念碑而闻名。晚上,用烤肉架烤肉的小贩占据了邻近的文达街,抹去了这个热闹的摊贩中心与城市其他地方的界限。如果你想要更加温馨的氛围,厦门街美食中心(Amoy Street Food Centre,马克斯韦尔路7号)很受当地人和米其林美食评论家的欢迎。3到6新元、约合2.25美元到4.50美元的一份主菜就够吃得饱饱的了。
        3) 9 p.m. Beyond the Singapore Sling        3)晚9点。超越新加坡司令
        The candy-colored shophouses on Amoy Street now house CrossFit gyms, hipster barbershops, Korean barbecue joints and other businesses reflecting Singapore’s trends. The less-than-two-year-old Native dazzles with cocktails made with local ingredients that range from fresh mangoes and salt-baked tapioca to jasmine blossoms and even ants. The hyperlocal approach informs every detail, from the soundtrack of local bands to the compostable coasters of dried lotus leaves and banana stalks (cocktails around 20 Singapore dollars).        厦门街上的糖果色店铺中有CrossFit健身房、时髦的理发店、韩国烤肉小店,以及其他反映新加坡潮流的商家。开张不到两年的Native酒吧有各式各样由当地材料制成的鸡尾酒,从新鲜芒果、盐烤木薯到茉莉花甚至是蚂蚁。超本土化风格渗透到每个细节,从背景播放的当地乐队,到用干荷叶和香蕉茎制成的环保杯垫(鸡尾酒约20新元一杯)。
        Saturday        星期六
        4) 11 a.m. East Coast Style        4)上午11点。东海岸风格
        Avocado toast and single-origin coffee may rule brunches in gentrified Tiong Bahru and up-and-coming Jalan Besar. But when you begin your morning in the laid-back Katong district, full of Easter egg-colored 19th-century villas, opt for the traditional bite of kaya toast, buns or white bread slathered with coconut jam and slabs of butter, served with soft-boiled eggs. Hungry diners (and Instagrammers) line up at the nearly century-old Chin Mee Chin Confectionery, a local institution where charcoal-grilled buns (1 Singapore dollar each) and heaping servings of nostalgia make up for the brusque service. For a heartier meal, sample the district’s interpretation of laksa, a spice-packed coconut curry noodle soup, at various spots such as 328 Katong Laksa (from 5.35 Singapore dollars) and Marine Parade Laksa (50 East Coast Road, No. 01-64; from 4.50 Singapore dollars).        在士绅化的中峇鲁和崭露头角的扎兰贝萨,早午餐可能是鳄梨吐司和单一来源咖啡的天下。但是,如果在悠闲的加东区——一个到处是复活节彩蛋色的19世纪别墅的地方——开始一个早晨,就选择传统的卡亚吐司,那是一种小圆面包或白面包,上面铺上椰子酱和黄油片,配上嫩煮蛋。饥肠辘辘的食客(以及Instagram用户)在拥有近百年历史的真美真糖果店外排队,这是一家本土店铺,炭烤面包(每个1新元)和丰富的怀旧菜品弥补了粗暴的服务。如果想要享用一顿更丰盛的美食,可以品尝这里对叻沙的不同演绎,这是一种充满香料的椰子咖喱面汤,可以去328加东叻沙(Katong Laksa,5.35新元)和海洋天堂叻沙(Marine Parade Laksa,东海岸路50,01-64号,4.50新元起)。
        5) 12:30 p.m. Glam Life        5)下午12:30。华丽生活
        Serving as the cultural heart of Singapore’s Muslim community, the palm-lined neighborhood of Kampong Glam remains popular with travelers and shoppers alike. Orient yourself around the landmark Sultan Mosque, now 90 years old, yet looking fresher than ever, thanks to the 2016 face-lift that put an extra shine on its golden domes while preserving the original timber door. To go deeper than browsing the near-identical accessory stores, rug shops and hip cafes with vaguely European names on Arab Street and Haji Lane, download the Singapore Heritage Trails app, a free platform with crowdsourced itineraries that uncover stories behind the colorful facades all around Singapore.        作为新加坡穆斯林社区的文化中心,甘榜格南(Gampong Glam)棕榈树林立的街区仍然深受旅行者和购物者的欢迎。可以到拥有90年历史的标志性苏丹清真寺(Sultan Mosque)游览,2016年的修整保留了它原有的木门,同时为其金色圆顶增添了光彩,令它看上去焕然一新。不要只是在阿拉伯街和哈吉巷浏览几乎一模一样的饰品店、地毯店和名字带点欧陆风情的时尚咖啡馆,而是要更加深入,下载新加坡文化遗产路线应用,这是一个免费平台,上面有许多人上传的行程,可以发现新加坡各地五彩缤纷外表背后的各种故事。
        6) 2 p.m. Look and Touch        6)下午2点。看一看,摸一摸
        Rest your legs at Looksee Looksee, a 25-seat reading room stocked with an eclectic collection of books on design, art and food. The interior designer John Lim and the architect Yong Sy Lyng created this space using whimsical furniture, tropical prints and quirky fabrics. The pay-what-you-want beverage service features brews by the local tea company A.muse Projects. If this puts you in the mood for souvenir shopping, Supermama next door has porcelain sets featuring the city’s unmistakable skyline, designed in Singapore and made in Kyushu, Japan.        在Looksee Looksee休息,这是一个有25个座位的阅览室,里面摆放着各种关于设计、艺术和食物的书籍。室内设计师约翰约翰·林(John Lim)和建筑师杨思林(Yong Sy Lyng,音)使用异想天开的家具、热带印花和古怪的织物创造了这个空间。当地茶叶公司A.muse Projects提供“随你付”式的饮料服务。如果你有心情购买纪念品,隔壁的Supermama提供在新加坡设计、在日本九州制造的瓷器套装,上面描绘着这座城市独特的天际线。
        7) 3:30 p.m. Artful Living        7)下午3:30。艺术生活
        The former City Hall and Supreme Court buildings were reborn as the ambitious, light-filled National Gallery Singapore in 2015, reflecting the country’s growing interest and pride in homegrown art. Here you’ll find paintings and sculptures from around Southeast Asia that connect the diverse regional styles that transcend national boundaries. Works by local artists like Georgette Chen and Chua Mia Tee offer intimate glimpses of Singapore’s past and present. (Tickets are 20 Singapore dollars for nonresidents.)        前市政厅和最高法院大楼在2015年焕发新生,成了宏伟、采光充足的新加坡国家美术馆(National Gallery Singapore),反映了该国对本土艺术的兴趣和自豪感不断增长。在这里,您可以找到来自东南亚各地的绘画和雕塑,将超越国界的多元地区风格联系在一起。张荔英(Georgette Chen)和蔡名智(Chua Mia Tee)等本土艺术家的作品让人可以端详新加坡的过去与现在。(非本国居民的门票是20新元。)
        8) 5:30 p.m. Culture Club        8)下午5:30。文化俱乐部
        Jutting out of the waterfront like two durians (the beloved local fruit so pungent that it’s banned on public transit), the performing arts venue The Esplanade hosts over 3,000 events that range from world-class concerts to unpretentious community programs. On any given evening you might happen upon a production of electronica music and video installation, or a concert of art songs by Enrique Granados and Benjamin Britten. Even if you’re not catching a performance, set aside a few minutes for the well-manicured roof terrace garden, which offers sweeping views of the city and Marina Bay.        表演艺术场地滨海艺术中心(The Esplanade)像两个榴莲一样伸出海滨(这种备受喜爱的本土水果味道刺鼻,因此禁止在公共交通工具中携带),它迄今举办了3000多场活动,从世界级的音乐会到朴实无华的社区活动。在任何一个晚上,你可能碰巧看到电子音乐和录像装置的演出,或恩里克·格拉纳多斯(Enrique Granados)和本杰明·布列顿(Benjamin Britten)的艺术歌曲音乐会。即使你没有赶上演出,也可以花几分钟的时间,来到修剪整齐的屋顶露台花园,从这里观赏城市和滨海湾的全景。
        9) 8 p.m. Cure for Hunger        9)晚上8点。疗饥时间
        No longer a notorious red light district, Keong Saik Road on the edge of Chinatown has seen globally oriented restaurants and bars taking up its Art Deco edifices and narrow shophouse. Among the cevicherias and Australian steakhouses, three-year-old Cure stands out with its smart prix fixe menus (five courses on weekends, 120 Singapore dollars; three courses on weekdays, 95 Singapore dollars). The Irish-born chef-owner Andrew Walsh serves no-holds-barred dishes like a custard of dashi in an onion broth, Wagyu paired with piquant harissa, and snapper steamed tender with fennel. A popular option among locals is Kok Sen Restaurant (30 Keong Saik Road), with diners lining up on the sidewalk for its tze char, or home-cooked Hokkien Chinese cuisine, with dishes like spicy jumbo prawn soup (16 Singapore dollars).        唐人街边上的恭锡路(Keong Saik)不再是臭名昭著的红灯区,今天,国际化的餐厅和酒吧占据了这里装饰艺术风格的大厦和狭窄的店屋。在一堆腌海鲜餐厅和澳大利亚牛排馆中,三年历史的Cure以价格固定菜单脱颖而出(周末五道菜,120新元;平日三道菜,95新元)。出生于爱尔兰的厨师老板安德鲁·沃尔什(Andrew Walsh)供应各种天马行空的菜式,像是蒸蛋洋葱汤、和牛搭配北非辣椒酱、茴香蒸鲷鱼。深受当地人喜欢的一个选择是国成球记餐室(Kok Se,恭锡30号),为了它家的福建家常菜,以及辛辣的大虾汤(16新元)等菜,大家排队排到了人行道上。
        10) 11:30 p.m. Midnight Gardens of Good        10)晚上11:30。午夜的花园
        Few things would encapsulate Singapore better than Gardens by the Bay, a nature park that’s at once lush and futuristic. The 250-acre grounds encompass themed conservatories, winding trails and Supertrees, or vertical gardens rising up to 16 stories and threaded together by suspended walkways. While air-conditioned indoor parks and the 72-foot-tall Skyway close at 9 p.m., the free outdoor gardens remain open until 2 a.m., giving you ample time to admire the wildly lit grounds — with thinner crowds and naturally cooler temperatures.        没有什么比滨海湾花园更能概括新加坡了,这是一个既郁郁葱葱又充满未来感的自然公园。这个占地101公顷的空间包括主题温室、蜿蜒的小径和擎天大树——16层楼高的垂直花园,由空中步道相连。虽然带温控系统的室内公园和22米高的空中步道在晚上9点就关闭了,但免费的户外花园一直开放到凌晨两点,令你有充分的时间去领略阑珊灯火,而且此时游客更少,气温更凉爽。
        Sunday        星期日
        11) 9 a.m. Not That Coney Island        11)上午9点。此科尼岛非彼科尼岛
        Those who can’t commit a whole day to the time capsule of Pulau Ubin, a rustic island of tin-roof shacks and mangrove-lined lakes, can indulge in an easier getaway with a trip to Coney Island Park. Over 80 bird species, including collared kingfisher and spotted wood owls, call this 123-acre nature reserve home. Rent a bike from one of several vendors at the nearby Punggol Point Park and breeze through the coastal forestry, or join a guided nature walk (free; registration required at nparks.gov.sg) to discover its diminutive beaches.        那些不能去“时间胶囊”乌敏岛(Pulau Ubin,这是一座充满乡村气息的岛屿,有铁皮屋顶棚屋和红树林环绕的湖泊)泡上一整天的人,可以去科尼岛放松一下。包括白领翡翠和点斑林鸮在内的80多种鸟类,生活在这个占地50公顷的自然保护区里。从附近的榜鹅水道公园(Punggol Point Park)的几个租车点租一辆自行车,轻松穿过海岸森林,或者参加一个有导游陪同的自然漫步(免费,但需要在nparks.gov.sg预约),去这里的小海滩看看。
        12) 2 p.m. It’s a Small Island After All        12)下午2点。毕竟这是个小岛
        Steps from Pulau Ubin dock, the lively 270-seat Little Island Brewing Company serves up S.P.A. (a Singaporean take on I.P.A.) and other unpasteurized and unfiltered beers. Grab tamarind-marinated wings (8 Singaporean dollars) and kick back to live music. Jumbo jets taking off from the adjacent Changi Airport are bound for faraway places. But you will want to stretch your weekend in Singapore as long as you can.        距离乌敏岛码头几步之遥,有一个270座的小岛啤酒厂(Little Island Brewing Company),这里供应新加坡式淡啤酒,以及其他未经消毒和过滤的啤酒。手里抓着罗望子腌制的鸡翅(8新元),跟着现场音乐表演摇摆。附近樟宜机场起飞的大型喷气式客机正飞往遥远的地方。但你只想在新加坡度一个尽可能长的周末。
        Lodging        住宿
        The art-filled Vagabond Club, with its own “whiskey library,” offers 41 intimate rooms in the heart of Little India and Kampong Glam; from 275 Singapore dollars.        充满艺术气息的雅客阁酒店(Vagabond Club)提供41间私密性极佳的房间,它有自己的“威士忌图书馆”,地点位于小印度和甘榜格南(Kampong Glam)的中心地带;价格275新元起。
        A former spice shop and distillery is now The Warehouse, a 37-room boutique hotel. You don’t need to jump in the adjacent river to cool down, either: The rooftop has an aquarium-like pool. From 240 Singapore dollars.        37间客房的仓库酒店(The Warehouse)以前是香料店和酿酒厂。为了凉快,你不用跳进酒店旁边的河里,在这家精品酒店的屋顶就有一个水族箱般的游泳池。价格240新元起。
        Centrally located, Chinatown makes a convenient home base with one-bedroom Airbnb rentals starting from 100 Singapore dollars. Jalan Besar, with its coffee shops and rentals averaging between $110 and $150, provides a more laid-back alternative to trendy Tiong Bahru. Keep in mind, however, that short-term rentals under three months remain illegal in Singapore.        因为地处市中心,唐人街地理位置优越,这里的一居室在爱彼迎(Airbnb)的租金起价100新元。惹兰勿剎(Jalan Besar)有咖啡店和平均租金在110~150美元之间的房子,与时髦的中峇鲁(Tiong Bahr)相比,这里的气氛更为悠闲。不过要记住,在新加坡,三个月以下的短租仍然是非法的。

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