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It’s Possible Leggings Are the Future. Deal With It.

来源:纽约时报    2019-04-03 04:27

        When did leggings make the leap from garment to cultural lightning rod? For what are essentially stretchy footless tights in a seemingly endless array of patterns and colors, they have been an unexpected source of controversy.        从什么时候开始,紧身裤从一种服装变成了文化上的众矢之的?这种带有无数图案与颜色的弹力不连袜紧身裤成了意想不到的争议之源。
        The latest uproar came last week, when Maryann White, the mother of four sons, wrote a letter to the The Observer, the school newspaper for both the University of Notre Dame and the nearby women’s college St. Mary’s, asking female students to ignore fashion and stop wearing leggings. It was for their own as well as the greater good, she suggested, in part because leggings made it hard for men to control themselves.        最近的骚动发生在上周,四个儿子的母亲玛丽安·怀特(Maryann White)给圣母大学(University of Notre Dame)和附近的圣母玛利亚女子学院(St. Mary’s)的联合校报《观察者》(The Observer)写了一封信,要求女学生无视时尚,不要穿紧身裤。她认为,这既是为了她们自己,也是为了更广泛的利益,部分原因是紧身裤让男人很难控制住自己。
        The you-wear-it/you’re-asking-for-it implication of the letter, not to mention the sheer idea of censoring clothing, set off the predictable firestorm of protest, both on campus and off. For two days students wore leggings in a show of group defiance, there was a #leggingsdayND hashtag on Twitter, and assorted men and women posted pictures of themselves in solidarity with leggings wearers.        信中这种“穿性感的衣服等于诱惑别人侵犯你”的暗示,更不用说对服装进行审查的想法,在校园内外引发的抗议风暴可想而知。在两天时间里,学生们身穿紧身裤以示抗议,通过Twitter上的#leggingsdayND(圣母大学紧身裤日)标签,可以看到各种各样的男人和女人贴出自己身穿紧身裤的照片以示声援。
        By Friday The Observer had another piece, this one from the editors in response to the furor, saying: “Having received over 35 letters to The Observer, in addition to the countless verbal comments, tweets, memes and class discussions about Monday’s letter, we have been astonished by the conversations the leggings piece has sparked.” Meanwhile, those wider conversation continued over the weekend.        周五,《观察者》刊登社论,回应人们的愤怒,文中说:“关于周一的信,《观察者》已经收到35封以上的来信,以及无数口头评论、推文、米姆和课堂讨论,紧身裤引起的争论令我们震惊。”直到周末,更广泛的对话仍在继续。
        This follows a 2017 United Airlines incident when two teenagers who were “pass travelers” (a category that includes relatives of airline employees) were prevented from flying because they were wearing leggings. Observers complained, social media got up in arms, and the makers of leggings had a field day; Puma, for example, jumped into the fray and burnished its image by offering a 20 percent discount on leggings to anyone presenting a United ticket.        2017年,美国联合航空公司(United Airlines)曾经发生过一起事件,两名“持通行证乘客”(这种类别中包括航空公司员工的亲属)因穿紧身裤被禁止登机。观察人士表示抗议,社交媒体上群情激愤,紧身裤的生产商们更是大闹一场;比如彪马(Puma)就加入了这场混战,向出示联合航空公司机票的人提供20%的紧身裤折扣,以此提升自己的形象。
        And that in turn punctuated the endless debate among parents and schools and students that can be summed up as “leggings-are-not-pants/yes-they-are.”        这反过来又加剧了家长、学校和学生之间无休止的争论,它可以归结为“紧身裤不是裤子/它们是裤子”。
        In general this existential interrogation of the soul of a garment (because, really, that’s what it is) centers on women, women’s bodies and the general discomfort with seeing too much of them, or believing you are.        一般来说,这种对一种服装的灵魂做出的生死拷问(因为真的就是这样)是以女人为中心的——女人的身体,以及看到女人身体的太多部位(或者相信自己看到了女人身体的太多部位)通常会带来的不适感。
        That’s certainly where Ms. White was going with her letter, and it’s generally the political offense used by those who are on the pro-leggings side: How dare you accuse me of dressing to seduce (an argument that has particular resonance in the era after #MeToo).        这当然是怀特写这封信的出发点,而且通常被支持紧身裤的人用作政治攻击:你怎么敢指责我穿紧身裤是为了勾引人(在“#我也是”之后的时代,这个观点引起了特别的共鸣)。
        But leggings began their rise to wardrobe domination with the advent of comfort culture: the post-casual Friday turn-of-the-millennium move away from formality that picked up steam with the rise of fleece-wearing hedge funders, the fall of Old Wall Street and the fetishization of Silicon Valley’s hoodies- and Teva-clad geniuses, and became even more pronounced under the influence of the Wellness movement.        但是随着舒适文化的出现,紧身裤开始统治人们的衣柜:本世纪初,周五上班可以穿休闲装的风气让人们摆脱了一本正经;穿抓绒面料服装的对冲基金经理们加速了这种趋势;老式华尔街的风格沦落了;硅谷则崇拜身穿连帽衫,脚踩Teva沙滩凉鞋的天才;在健康运动的影响下,这种文化更加盛行。
        Leggings also function differently for different age groups: for Gen Y, they tend to be lifestyle signifiers that have more to do with health and activity than, say, everyday workwear; for Gen Z-ers, who largely reject uniformity and traditional labels, they are simply a basic, the equivalent of jeans. They are something you put on without thought.        紧身裤对不同年龄段的人也有不同的意义:对Y世代来说,紧身裤往往是生活方式的象征,代表着健康和活动,而不是日常工作服之类;而对于在很大程度上拒绝统一和传统标签的Z世代来说,紧身裤只是一种基本的东西,就像牛仔裤一样。它们是你想都不用想就能穿上的东西。
        Which is to say, leggings are about a lot of things, and sex may be the least of them — if sex plays any role at all.        也就是说,紧身裤包含了很多意义,而性可能是其中最不重要的——如果其中真有性意味的话。
        One thing that was striking about the Notre Dame protest was the rejection of what they saw as the traditional gender assumptions involved. Leggings are not the sole province of the siren female was the idea.        在圣母大学的抗议中,最引人注目的一件事是,人们拒绝接受对紧身裤的传统性别假设。他们提出,紧身裤并不是勾引人的女性的专属领域。
        In their editorial, The Observer’s writers asked, “Why has the legging controversy generated a larger impact than other controversial topics? Students and community members have spent hours debating the merits and faults of a popular clothing choice. But where is the willingness to speak up about other issues with substantial policy implications, legally and on campus?”        《观察者》的作者在社论中问道,“为什么紧身裤引发的争议比其他争议话题造成了更大影响?学生和社区成员花好几个小时讨论一种流行服装的优劣。但是,在谈论法律上和校园里其他有重大政策影响的问题时,人们怎么就没有这么大的热情呢?”
        The truth is, it’s possible leggings may be simply standing in for those other issues. One of the great gotchas of fashion is that what may appear superficial or unimportant (leggings!) is, in fact, representative of a more complicated, harder to express reality (identity). This is what gives clothes their power.        事实是,紧身裤可能只是代表了其他问题。在时尚当中,最让人上当的陷阱之一就是,那些看似肤浅或不重要的东西(紧身裤!)实际上代表着一种更复杂、更难以表达的现实(身份认同)。这就是服装的力量所在。
        As a result, what the leggings uproar may have exposed is not so much anyone’s physique per se, but rather a cultural fault line that runs through generations. This historical pattern includes miniskirts and jeans, Mary Quant and James Dean, and garments that seemed egregious and inexplicable to what is generally referred to as the establishment but play a key and highly visual role in upending norms to make way for the next.        因此,紧身裤风波所暴露的,与其说是什么人的身材,还不如说是贯穿几代人的文化断层。这一历史模式包括迷你裙和牛仔裤、玛丽·官(Mary Quant)和詹姆斯·迪恩(James Dean),以及那些对通常被称为“权威人士”的人们来说似乎极为糟糕和费解的服装,但它们在颠覆常规、为下一种模式开路方面,发挥了非常明显的关键作用。
        Sure, it’s possible that is overstating the matter. It’s possible they are just stretchy footless tights that are easy to wear.        当然,这有可能夸大了事实。它很可能仅仅是一种容易穿上身的不连袜弹力紧身裤。
        But judging by Lululemon’s recent results, which saw net revenue rise 21 percent in the third quarter of 2018, and the fact that part of Levi’s much-heralded IPO was attributed to the “stretch” now included in jeans to cater to the leggings market, this “popular clothing choice” (as The Observer labeled them) is not going away any time soon. All this suggests that the Notre Dame uproar may not be a fluke, but a harbinger.        但请看Lululemon近期的销售结果,该品牌在2018年第三季度净营收增长21%;事实上,李维斯(Levi’s)新一轮大肆宣传的IPO部分是为迎合紧身裤市场而为牛仔裤加入的“拉伸”元素所带来的,因此这种“流行着装选择”(这是《观察者》为紧身裤打上的标签)在短期内不会消失。所有这些都表明,圣母大学的喧嚣可能不是一种偶然,而是预示着更多东西。

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