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The Color of Protest

来源:纽约时报    2019-10-30 05:45

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        Imagine a world where you couldn’t wear black.        想象不能穿黑衣的世界会是什么样子。
        Where would that leave the beatniks and the goths? The Audrey Hepburn-wannabes? Where would it leave the fashion folk, and all the social and cultural groups that have seized on the color as an identifier thanks to its long-term associations with … well, take your pick … darkness, existential angst, artistic endeavor, intimidation, obscurity, rigor, efficiency, mystery, depression and sophistication?        这让披头族和哥特那帮人怎么办?让想成为奥黛丽·赫本的人怎么办?让时尚界人士怎么办,还有许许多多的社会和文化团体,以这个颜色为身份标识,就因为它一直以来与……嗯,随你挑吧……黑暗、存在性焦虑、艺术挣扎、恐吓、晦涩、严酷、效率、神秘、抑郁和老练联系在一起?
        Where would it leave the protesters?        让抗议者怎么办?
        This is perhaps a more apropos question. After all, it is the pro-democracy protesters in Hong Kong who have become known most recently for wearing black as they take a stand against the attempts of the Chinese government to make their region less semiautonomous. And it is those protesters who have become the target for a possible ban — at least, that’s the word on the street — on the import of black clothing from mainland China to Hong Kong. This follows an earlier ban, issued by the Hong Kong chief executive, on the wearing of face masks.        或许,这是一个更恰当的问题。毕竟,香港的亲民主抗议者最近因穿黑衣而为人所熟知,他们反对中国政府企图削弱香港的半自治地位。而如今,这些抗议者可能面临着一项禁令——至少有传闻是这么说——禁止香港从中国大陆进口黑色服装。此前,香港特别行政区行政长官已经下令禁止蒙面。
        According to the South China Morning Post, the no-black-imports edict was first issued in July but recently became more all encompassing.        据《南华早报》报道,禁止进口黑色衣物的法令于7月首次发布,但近来进一步扩大了覆盖范围。
        By banning the import of new garments — including black T-shirts, headbands and goggles — the government (or its minions; it’s hard to tell if the ban is in anticipation of the government’s wishes or reflects its actual wishes) is effectively trying to cut off protesters’ access to their uniform. And those enacting the ban don’t appear to discriminate between the kind of black clothes one might wear to the gym, say, and the kind one might wear on the latest front line.        通过禁止进口新服饰——包括黑色T恤、发带和护目镜——政府(或下级官员;很难说该禁令是出于对政府意愿的预期,还是政府真实意愿的体现。)——实际上是在试图切断抗议者获取所需装备的途径。颁布禁令的人,似乎没打算把去健身房穿的黑衣和在前线抗议的人穿的黑衣区别对待。
        Which reflects both the intelligence of adopting an easily accessible, everyday color as an idiom of opposition and how hard it will be to combat.        由此可以看到,选择一种容易获取的、常见的颜色作为抗争风格是何其明智,而这个选择要对付起来又是何其困难。
        Though that hasn’t stopped couriers from doing their best to obey. A Hong Kong shipping company called 4PX, for example, told customers last month that it was illegal to ship black T-shirts (also gas masks, laser lights, ski goggles, towels, bandages, loudspeakers and headbands, among other items). When asked where this order originated, a 4PX employee said the list came from China Post, the postal carrier controlled by the Chinese government. China Post did not respond to requests for comment.        但这并没有阻止快递行业尽力服从这一禁令。比如,一家名为递四方(4PX)的香港货运公司上月告诉客户,运送黑色T恤(还有防毒面具、激光笔、滑雪镜、毛巾、绷带、扩音器和发带等物品)是违法的。当被问及该命令出自哪里时,递四方的一名员工表示禁运清单来自中国政府控制下的邮政运营商中国邮政。中国邮政未回应置评请求。
        Another shipping company that serves Hong Kong, called Phxbuy, posted a similar notice on Sept. 27. A person who answered the phone there blamed customs officials for the decision, without specifying which ones.        9月27日,另一家在香港运营的货运公司凤凰集运(Phxbuy)也发布了类似的通知。一个接听电话的人将这一决定归咎于海关,但没有具体说是什么海关。
        Brian Au, the Hong Kong-born, Canada-raised founder of CHSN1 (“chosen one”), a street wear-meets-gym wear line that is manufactured at factories in Guangzhou and offers predominantly black clothing, said his most recent drop had been stuck in customs since September.        生于香港、在加拿大长大的布莱恩·欧(Brian Au)是CHSN1(即“chosen one”,“被选中的人”之意)的创始人。CHSN1是一个融合街头风和健身服饰的服装品牌,在广州生产,其产品以黑色为主。布莱恩·欧说,自9月以来他的新货一直被卡在海关。
        “Basically all courier services have refused to pick up anything black or remotely black,” he said. “I couldn’t even get my samples in. Not a single T-shirt or jacket.”        “基本上所有快递公司都拒收黑色,哪怕是稍微有一点黑色,” 他说: “我连我的样品都拿不到。一件T恤或夹克都拿不到。” 
        “I’m empathetic to the situation, but it’s out of our control,” said Mr. Au, who noted that he was not particularly political. “There’s nothing to do at this point except ride it out and be patient.”        “我个人很理解这种情况,但我们无能为力,”布莱恩·欧说,并表明他没有特别的政治倾向:“现在除了忍耐,度过眼前的难关,什么也不能做。”
        To date, the ban does not seem to have had any visible effect on the protesters, who have more than enough black in their closet already, or even on the availability of black clothing, which is still being sold in shops.        到目前为止,该禁令似乎对抗议者没有任何明显影响,因为他们的衣橱里有足够多的黑色衣服,甚至商店里也仍然在售卖黑色服装,供应并无影响。
        But even if black garments did ultimately become a scarce resource, the Chinese government, in focusing on the color, is missing the point.        但即使黑衣最终变得稀缺,把注意力放在颜色上的中国政府也是错过了重点。
        Yes, black clothing “remains a hugely significant form of oppositional dress,” as Dr. Erin Vearncombe, an assistant professor at the University of Toronto whose research focuses on dress and the body, wrote in an email. It “signals everything from independent thought to outright defiance and revolution.”        是的,正如多伦多大学(University of Toronto)从事服装和身体研究的助理教授艾琳·沃恩库姆(Erin Vearncombe)博士在电子邮件中所写的那样,黑衣“始终是一种具有极其显著的抗争服饰”。它“可以意味着从独立思考到公然反抗及革命的一切”。
        Yes, it has a long and storied history as the color of refusal. Queen Victoria used it to signify her separateness as a widow; the Black Panthers wore black leather jackets, black pants and black shades; the Time’s Up protesters wore black red-carpet gowns at the Golden Globes; and for “black bloc” and antifa protests against the far right, it’s become a signature. (It is also seen as signal of menace. As Dr. Vearncombe noted: “Across historical and geographical contexts, people have considered black clothing as ‘looking’ malevolent, guilty, dishonest, violent.”)        是的,黑色作为拒绝的颜色有着悠久而传奇的历史。维多利亚女王用它来表明自己作为一名寡妇的隔绝于世;黑豹党穿着黑皮夹克、黑裤子,戴黑色墨镜;支持“时间到了”(Time’s Up)运动的女星出席金球奖时身穿黑色礼服走红毯;而对反极右的“黑群”(black bloc)和反法(antifa)抗议而言,黑色已成为一个标志。(同时它也被认为带有恐吓的意味。正如沃恩库姆所说:“在许多不同的历史和地域语境里,人们都认为黑色服饰‘看上去’恶毒、有罪、不诚实、暴力。”)
        Yes, “clothing’s uniquely affective, declarative and performative capacity has meant it has long operated as a central communicative site for political activism and demands for social reform,” as two researchers at the University of Brighton put it. “The use of dress as a form of ‘nonverbal resistance’ seems more prevalent than ever in recent times,” they added.        是的,正如布莱顿大学(University of Brighton)的两名研究人员所说,“服装具有独一无二的情感性、布告性和表演性,意味着它长期以来被作为展现政治行动主义和社会改革需求的核心沟通点。”他们还说:“以穿着作为一种‘非语言抵抗’的形式,在当今时代似乎比以往任何时候都更为普遍。”
        And yes, black has long been worn as a signal of opposition in Hong Kong, including in the protests against attempts by the Chinese government to introduce a new “moral and national education” plan in 2012 and by the pro-democracy marchers of 2017.        是的,在香港,黑色一直被视为反抗的标志,包括2012年反对中国政府在香港推行新“德育及国民教育”计划的抗议活动和2017年的民主抗议活动。 
        But the fact is, it’s not the color (black or otherwise) that defines protest clothing. It is the fact that a group of people, united in common cause, are united in a common shade. It’s the joint identity that stands out: the visual expression of a voluminous force.        但事实是,界定服装抗议性质的不是颜色(黑色或其他颜色),而是这样一个事实,即一群人在共同事业的号召下穿着同样色调的衣服走到一起。它凸显了一个共同的身份,从视觉上表达了一个庞大的势力。
        Consider the yellow vests in France. The pink pussy hats at the Women’s March in Washington. The “Handmaid’s Tale” red robes in protests for reproductive rights. The women in white at the State of the Union. And the original women in white, the suffragists. All used a color to render their position and numbers unmistakable, to telegraph a point in a visually impactful way, to render their individual selves a monolith.        想想法国的黄背心,华盛顿女性大游行上的粉红色猫帽,《使女的故事》中为了争取生育权的红袍子。身穿白衣听取国情咨文报告的女性。还有穿白衣的始创者,那些争取参政权的女性。他们都使用了一种颜色,彰显他们的立场和规模,用一种具有视觉冲击的方式传达一种观点,让众多的个体凝聚成一个整体。
        So while a black ban, if it takes hold, could ultimately change the makeup of many daily wardrobes, it will simply result in transference when it comes to the uniforms of the opposition.        因此,禁黑令如果生效,最终将改变许多人日常服装的构成,但它只会导致反对派改换另一种制服。 
        There are, after all, more than 3,000 shades in the Pantone library. To say the dissidents have options is to understate the matter. Purple for protest!        毕竟,潘通色库有3000多种色调可供选择。说持不同政见者还有其他选择,已经是往轻了说。用紫色抗议?
        Can’t you just see it?        是不是有种既视感呢?

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