炸鸡、改革开放、爱国主义:肯德基广告里的中国_OK阅读网
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炸鸡、改革开放、爱国主义:肯德基广告里的中国
In KFC’s China Ads, Nuggets Are Served With Patriotism

来源:纽约时报    2018-09-28 05:42



        HONG KONG — China began an audacious experiment four decades ago to inject free-market thinking into its rigid, Communist-controlled political system, beginning a process that would lift hundreds of millions of people out of poverty and create the world’s second-largest economy.
        香港——40年前,中国开始了一场大胆的实验,把自由市场思维注入僵化的、由共产党控制的政治体系,开启了一个将会使数亿人脱离贫困、并创造出世界第二大经济体的进程。
        And what better way to celebrate this accomplishment than with a bucket of fried chicken?
        还有什么是比一桶炸鸡更好的方式来庆祝这项成就呢?
        Last week, KFC introduced an advertising campaign in mainland China celebrating 40 years of “reform and opening up,” the catchphrase that defined the era. A two-minute TV spot that aired on state television showed two Chinese celebrities traveling back in time by railway, seeing streets filled with bicycles and bamboo scaffolding.
        上周,肯德基(KFC)在中国大陆推出了一条广告,庆祝“改革开放”(这是定义了那个时代的口号)40周年。在国家电视台播出的一个两分钟的宣传片里,两位中国明星乘坐火车穿越时空回到过去,看到街道上满是自行车和竹脚手架。
        The actors are then jolted back into the present on a high-speed bullet train to sporting events that evoke the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing and to young people using smartphones and cheering at pop music concerts. As the ad continues, it shows people carrying boxes and buckets of KFC, with one group of twentysomethings clinking chicken nuggets together as if toasting with champagne.
        接着,两位演员乘坐高铁回到当代,观看让人想起2008年北京夏季奥运会的体育赛事,以及年轻人使用智能手机在流行乐演唱会上欢呼。随着广告继续,它展示了人们提着肯德基的餐盒和食物桶,一群二十多岁的人一起碰手中的鸡块,就像用香槟碰杯一样。
        “Who would have thought that the past 40 years would bring so much change?” one of the stars, the 44-year-old actor Huang Bo, says to Lu Han, a 28-year-old Chinese heartthrob. The TV spot concludes with a voice-over “saluting” China’s 40th anniversary of economic reform and a cheer of “Go China!”
        “你说谁能想到这40年的变化这么大?”其中一位明星、44岁的演员黄渤对28岁的中国万人迷鹿晗说。这个宣传片以“向中国经济改革40周年致敬”和“中国加油”的欢呼结束。
        Then it touts KFC’s seasonal meal deals. They include a bucket proclaiming “40 years of reform and opening up” that contains three chicken nuggets, three drinks, two wings, two meat pastries, two burgers and a box of popcorn chicken. Price: about $14.80.
        它接着开始兜售肯德基的季节性套餐。它们包括一个赞颂“改革开放40周年”的全家桶,里面有三块鸡块、三杯饮料、两只翅膀、两个肉饼、两个汉堡和一盒鸡米花。价格为102元。
        Foreign companies in China rarely venture into the political realm in their advertising, but the ad comes at a potentially difficult time. The mounting trade war between the United States and China, a major market for American consumer brands, has strained the two countries’ commercial ties. 
        在中国的外企很少在广告中触碰政治,但这则广告出现在一个潜在的困难时期。中国是美国消费品牌的主要市场,中美之间不断升级的贸易战已经使两国的商业关系变得紧张起来。
        So far there are no signs of a Chinese consumer boycott, which could damage the local economy as much as American companies. Still, the prospect makes it important for American brands to maintain a positive image. The ad was made with China Central Television, the state-run broadcaster and a pillar of China’s propaganda machine.
        至今为止,还没有出现中国消费者抵制美国货的迹象,这种行为可能会像损害美国企业一样损害本国经济。尽管如此,这种前景使美国品牌维持正面形象变得十分重要。这则广告与中国中央电视台共同制作,这家官方电视台是中国政治宣传机器的支柱。
        “KFC can potentially capitalize on CCTV’s prestige and benefit in the Chinese market at the critical moment when there are increasing tensions between the U.S. and China,” said Hongmei Li, an associate professor of strategic communication at Miami University and the author of the book “Advertising and Consumer Culture in China.”
        “在中美关系日益紧张的关键时刻,肯德基有可能利用央视的声望在中国市场获利,”迈阿密大学(Miami University)战略传播学副教授、《广告与中国消费者文化》(Advertising and Consumer Culture in China)一书的作者李红梅说。
        The ad has been greeted with a mix of amusement and cynicism in China, where consumers are increasingly marketing-savvy.
        这则广告在中国得到的反应既有喜爱也有嘲讽,那里的消费者对于营销手段越来越了解。
        “Look at the bright red color,” Wang Xuejing, a Beijing customer, said as she scrolled through a KFC banner ad tailored for WeChat, a popular Chinese social media platform. “It’s so plain, not modern at all.”
        “看那个大红色,”北京的消费者王学晶(音)在浏览着肯德基为中国流行社交媒体平台微信订制的横幅广告时说。“特简单,一点都不现代。”
        “Very tacky,” said her companion, Zheng Boyi, pointing to the gold lettering on the bucket they had shared. 
        “够土的,”她的同伴郑博一(音)指着她们分享的全家桶上的金字说道。
        “It’s China red,” Yang Donghe, a 17-year-old model, said with some hesitation about the campaign’s red-and-gold color scheme. “Not bad.”
        “这不就中国红么,”17岁的模特杨东鹤(音)带着一丝犹豫说起广告使用的红色和金色。“挺好的。”
        It isn’t as if patriotic advertising is unique to China. KFC has previously adopted American symbolism — complete with George Washington sculpted from mashed potatoes — to celebrate the Fourth of July.
        爱国主义广告并非中国独有。肯德基过去曾采用美国象征主义——把土豆泥雕成乔治·华盛顿(George Washington)的形象——来庆祝美国国庆节。
        KFC also appeals to patriotism in other countries.
        肯德基也在其他国家迎合爱国主义。
        But in China, American brands in particular have to be careful to avoid offending local sensibilities. KFC has been the subject of protests there in the past, especially during times of political tension with the United States. Public pressure forced Starbucks a decade ago to close an outlet in Beijing’s Forbidden City.
        但在中国,美国品牌尤其需要小心,以避免冒犯当地的敏感情绪。肯德基曾经遭到抗议,尤其是在中国与美国处于政治紧张关系的时期。10年前,公众压力迫使星巴克关闭了在北京故宫里的一家分店。
        Few foreign companies have aligned themselves with overtly political events in China as KFC has done, but many of them emphasize Chinese values and traditions. Coca-Cola stressed the importance of family reunions during Chinese New Year, while companies like Adidas, Nike and Pepsi jumped to highlight Chinese pride during the 2008 Beijing Olympics. McDonald’s made its Olympic jingle more specific: “I’m lovin’ it when China wins.” 
        很少有其他外国企业像肯德基一样与中国太过政治的事件保持一致,但许多公司都会强调中国价值观和传统。可口可乐(Coca-Cola)在春节期间强调家庭团聚的重要性,像阿迪达斯(Adidas)、耐克(Nike)和百事(Pepsi)这样的公司在2008年北京奥运会期间争先强调中国人的自豪感。麦当劳(McDonald)的奥运会广告词更加具体:“我就喜欢中国赢”。
        Arriving in 1987, KFC was an early entrant among consumer brands after China opened up to foreign investment, and it won broad appeal in part by tailoring its menu to local tastes. Breakfast combos of fried dough sticks and soy milk are a hit, and meal deals also offer rice. Its fried chicken comes in local flavors, encrusted with salted egg yolk or Sichuan spices.
        1987年进入中国时,肯德基是在中国向外国投资开放后早期入华的消费品牌,它受到广泛欢迎部分是由于它根据当地口味调整菜单。油条和豆浆的早餐组合大受欢迎,套餐还提供米饭。它的炸鸡以当地口味烹调,裹着咸蛋黄或四川调味料。
        KFC now has more locations in China than in the United States, with more than 5,000 restaurants in more than 1,000 cities.
        如今,肯德基在中国的门店数量超过美国,在超过1000个中国城市拥有5000多家餐厅。
        The brand has slipped in popularity in recent years, beset by competition from higher-end foreign brands like Pizza Express, a British chain, as well as cheaper local upstarts like Zhen Gongfu, or “Real Kung Fu” in Chinese. Yum Brands, which owns the KFC brand in the United States, spun off its Yum China operation two years ago, and it is now a separate company. 
        近年来,这个品牌的人气有所下滑,受到了来自如英国连锁餐厅玛尚诺(Pizza Express)这样更高端的外国品牌,以及真功夫这样更廉价的本土新贵的竞争。在美国拥有肯德基品牌的百胜(Yum Brands)两年前剥离了百胜中国的业务,后者现在是一家独立的公司。
        Representatives of Yum China, which owns KFC stores in China, did not respond to requests for comment. 
        在中国拥有肯德基餐厅的百胜中国的代表没有回应置评请求。
        It is unclear whether the new ad campaign will gin up business for the restaurant chain, but some Chinese diners doubt it. 
        尚不清楚新的广告活动是否会带动这家连锁餐厅的生意,但一些中国食客对此表示怀疑。
        “I don’t really care about the ad,” said Yu Peng, a 28-year-old customer. “It won’t affect my decision of eating KFC or not though. I care more about the price and quality.”
        “我也不会很在乎这个广告,”28岁的顾客彭宇(音)说。“吃不吃肯德基,肯定这个广告不会影响我。主要还是看价格和质量。”
        
        
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